Tightening olive on washing machine check valve

[Scarum]

Hello!

I am replacing the check valves to the washing machine and have removed the old olive but when I come to tightening a new check valve with the new olive I cannot get any further than 1/4 turn which is not enough to stop any leak. There's not much space under the sink for big tools.

Can anyone help with some advice please?

Cheers.

 

[JohnEBoca]

[color=]Trying to explain your problem in words may not give the full question, therefore interpretation of the problem may not give you the correct answer.

So to help in a situation like this, a photo or photos may get you a remedy for your problem.[/color]

 

[JohnEBoca]

Why give me the option then !!!

 

[ChrisR]

There's not much space under the sink for big tools.

Can anyone help with some advice please?

Get plumbers' tools, with or without a plumber...

 

[Scarum]

Hi - yes a photo could help so here is one. Sorry it's a shaken photo but the camera's batteries gave up on that shot, so no flash and the batteries are recharging now.

What I have done since first post is use some PTFE tape around the olive and refitted, I need mains water on! The olive is not loose as it was before fitting so perhaps it is OK but I doubt it. After tightening finger tight I can tighten with adjustable spanner to 1/4 turn, I believe I need a whole turn for these compression valves.

Right now there is no leak BUT I can move the compression join when I turn the washing machine hose.

I am currently doing a wash on the washing machine, no leaks but I am not convinced of the longivity of it.[/img]

 

[powell30]

Unscrew the blue handle. This will allow you to get one adjustable spanner on the body to hold it in place, use a second to turn the nut. Before you do this tho, pack the nut with jointing compound as well.....every bit helps. As a final resort, cut out that section of pipe, fit the iso on tightly, where you can use tools and use a straight coupler end feed (solder) to rejoin......just make sure there is no water in the pipes tho......solder won't run

 

[JohnEBoca]

Was the new olive made from Brass ?

Sometimes a Copper olive, in this situation, maybe better to use as they are not normaly as wide as the brass ones.

This inturn will give the nut more distance to travel up the thread of the fitting body, making a full compression joint.

Before making the new compression joint, If you can cut back the pipe, 1"/28mm or so.

 

[Scarum]

The olive is copper.

Typically I only have one adjustable spanner and my spanner set does not have one large enough, otherwise I could do as suggested. I'll ask a neighbour if I can borrow an adjustable spanner.

 

[Scarum]

Unscrew the blue handle. This will allow you to get one adjustable spanner on the body to hold it in place, use a second to turn the nut. Before you do this tho, pack the nut with jointing compound as well.....every bit helps. As a final resort, cut out that section of pipe, fit the iso on tightly, where you can use tools and use a straight coupler end feed (solder) to rejoin......just make sure there is no water in the pipes tho......solder won't run

I did as you suggested and it worked, thanks for your help and everyone else. I am currently testing with paper towels for leaks.

Good job too becuase I am out of PTFE tape now and I have no car until Wednesday