Tips on gettings wires into faceplates.

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Good afternoon,

I suspect that the answer to this question is 'practice', but it never hurts to ask.

I've been replacing our power faceplates with MK units - we're decorating and some are hideous, while others lack switches. The slack in the boxes is minimal, and the cable are obviously not overly flexible; that's bearable when there are only a couple of L/N/E, but an absolute mother-lover when there are three due to a spur.

I obviously can't solder the ends before blindly fumbling the wires into the plate, and I then spend an extra couple of minutes with a mirror and a few security tugs to make sure they are all secure.

Is this just something you professionals get handy at, or are there any tips/tricks? Also, could anyone recommend faceplates with internals that have a lower profile - for exceptionally awkward boxes?
 
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Extend the cable by crimps, terminal block or Wago connectors if they are too short.

Lay the cables carefully and they should fit, if not, dig out the old boxes and put in deeper ones! :cry:
 
I suspected I'd have to do some box digging - oh well!

I've got some decent crimpers, but I didn't know it was acceptable to crimp ring cables. That's good to know if I come up against a box where I really just can't get the cables into a new plate.

Thanks a lot. :)
 
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The Wago connectors are really good and spring pressure hold the wires tight.
These are not ideal for connecting old cable where the copper has tarnished or corroded. Before using them clean the copper to remove the tarnish and expose bright copper.
 
I have never had a problem with Wago connectors.
The cable clamp mechanism cleans the copper without having to resort to a Brillo pad.

Crimps, however, are another issue..
 
I've been cleaning the copper as I go, so the crimps should be OK. :)

Thank you for the links and further information!
 
I have never had a problem with Wago connectors. The cable clamp mechanism cleans the copper without having to resort to a Brillo pad.
That's certainly true of the push-in ones (sometimes quite a fight, so the conductor should get well Brillo'd) - but I'm far less sure about the 'lever' type Wagos.

Kind Regards, John!
 
So I assume it's standards compliant but not acceptable to some? I can see why you might get a better crimp with stranded, I'd never put a network crimp on solid core cable, but many do, and find them OK as long as the cable doesn't move much.
 
So I assume it's standards compliant but not acceptable to some? I can see why you might get a better crimp with stranded, I'd never put a network crimp on solid core cable, but many do, and find them OK as long as the cable doesn't move much.
That's about it. The Wiring Regulations are silent on the matter (although they accept crimping, per se), but some people (me included) are nervous, to various extents, about crimping solid conductors, and often cite a NASA 'working practices handbook' (or something like that) which forbids the crimping of solid conductors. Needless to say, those who feel differently will often point out that buildings generally vibrate a lot less than spacecraft, particularly launch vehicles :). However, there is no doubt that electricians often do crimp solid conductors - so I guess it is for you to 'take a view'!

Kind Regards, John
 
So I assume it's standards compliant but not acceptable to some?
The regulation just states that a joint shall be made with ... or 'appropriate compression tool'.

For those who think it appropriate, it complies.

However ...
 

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