tips on plasterboarding a ceiling

[Lusi83]

Decided I am going to replace a tongue and groove ceiling with plasterboard....never really done anything like this before ....
So a couple of questions..
Trying to do this cheaply ...so not going to get it skimmed...just tape and joint it...and so will get tapered edges thinking 12.5cm...

It is approximately 70cm wide for approx 2m then 180cm for 2.2m -(with a 11cm wide bit of wall sticking into this) - know I need to check out the joint locations to decide the best size to buy..but in principle is it better to get a long length and have one or 2 non tapered joints or go for width ways and have more joints but tapered...

Do you use the same self adhesive net tape stuff and jointing compound along the joint between the wall and ceiling? (walls will be papered)

Thinking I'll need to use lining paper - do I need to treat the plasterboard (decorating side!) with anything before papering... (thinking what a nightmare stripping wall paper off plasterboard can be...)

Finally need to cut some holes for downlighters - do I need to do anything to the edges of the plasterboard around the holes?

Thanks...

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

The best method is to board to restrict joints, especially if you are joint taping.
Heres is a link that will help,
staggered joints
The nylon self adhesive tapes will do for both flat joints on the ceiling and angled joints between ceiling and wall.
It is best to treat the board onces the tape joint process is complete.
Using gyproc dry wall sealer will do this.
Installing downlights in plasterboards does not require anything special doing to the board.
But you must be aware that downlights do come with hazards of their own, you are breaking are cutting a hole in the ceiling therefor breaking in to a fire barrier, so precausing my be required to prevent the spread of fire, smoke and moisture. This will depending the room being boarded and the room or space above. So they may need firehoods/socks over them.

Also some downlights should not be covered in thermal insulation and either a barrier to prevent contact should be in place or a gap of 150mm between light fitting in ceiling void and insulation given.
Fire Vapour & Thermal Seal Loft Cap

Some downlights do allow the covering of insulation and also you can buy fire rated ones that comply to the relevant building regulations.

 

[Lusi83]

Sorry for being a bit thick
What does restrict mean? Try and make them as tight/close together as possible? And that would being going lengthwise - not widthwise (taper to taper)?
Hopefully the joists and noggins will be ok - the wider parts would have been the original plasterboard ceiling....but I will make sure it is well supported.....

Also are nails a real no go? (I have some that should be ok -bought in bulk years ago for a small patch! - pity not to use them up)


Looked up the sealer - can you buy it in smaller quantities than 10L? Sure I don't need that much do I? (and it isn't cheap) Is there anything else I could use? (paint? PVa?)


Part of the reason I'm doing this is because I've discovered the downlighters are fitted right next to joists/roof slope - I was going to make plasterboard boxes to go over them but can't make them big enough to to give them enough air clearance.... there isn't enough room for loftcaps!

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

By restrict, I mean reduce the number of joints you have in the ceiling to tape up, therefor using board sizes that will prevent the number of joints is advisable.
This will very much depend on which way your joist run in the room.
I always go with 2400x1200x12.5mm boards, so you will then reduce the number of cut edges that are butted up together.
Sometimes with restricted space/room it is not always the practical size to use, as you may not be able to get the boards either to the location or up, so that could also be an issue.
With your maximum width being 2200mm, and if your joist run in the right direction, there should be no butted joints.
The only joint that you will have is along the tapered edge.
It would also be a good idea to install nogins around the permitter of the ceiling, between joists to prevent sagging of the board.
Use screws not nails, it will be okay to tack you boards in place using the nails, prior to screwing them but a screw will offer a better more secure installation. Also use dry wall screws these are moisture resistant and will not blow, under moist/wet/damp conditions.

As for the dry wall sealer:
Some use a diluted wallpaper paste solution to prep the boards and claim never to have had problems.
I don't, I seal it with dry wall sealer.
You can buy a wickes home brand that is about half price but you get about half as much.

Downlights:
If you can not install them safely, then don't bother, they can be dangerous and to be truthful are not that great as far as illuminance is concerned.
Some fire rated ones here
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_In...hts_Index/Fire_Rated_Downlights_Gu/index.html

 

[keenedge]

Use a board jack such as Toolmonkey in Leighton Buzzard sell, they are made by a firm called Gluck and are miles better than the cheapo versions from supermarkets.
[http://www.toolmonkey.co.uk/categories/Support%20Props.htm?catID=344][/url]

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

You can knock these up if needs be,
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Dead_man_prop

 

[Lusi83]

Thanks - I'm now really surprisingly confident!
Hopefully I won't need a prop - if I can get OH to act as one....
Sorry I wasn't very clear - I am redoing the ceiling to move the downlighters to a safer position ....can't believe these were given a letter of comfort by Building control! and because it is tongue and groove can't just move them and patch it
Just thankful I have been using low energy ligthbulbs...
I would get rid of them all together but the room is such a funny shape I would need 2 - 3 ceiling lights anyway...

 

[Alastairreid]

Hopefully I won't need a prop - if I can get OH to act as one.... .

Aint they always