I have to remove two small sections of pipe on a rad feed and return to fit a newly installed K2 (previously a K1). Is it worth me investing in a decent punch to swage the pipe to save two joints or just solder two straight couplers and be done with it. Access to the pipework is under a floating floor, so will always be a pain to access the pipes in the future.
To swage or use a straight coupler (15mm copper rad pipes)
- Thread starter Robbot
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Used one going back a few years ,all ok ,but not to sure with the modern copper,personally I’d go with couplings
A decent swaging tool will cost a lot more than a couple of straight couplings. IMO that cost wouldn't be justified unless you:-
a) are going to do many more joins over the next few years.
b) have somewhere dry to store the tool between uses.
c) can remember where that safe storage place is when next you need to use it!
d) like having tools to lend to your neighbours, and you have neighbours who'll return them.
e) have a tool to thoroughly clean the inside of a freshly cut pipe without ripping open your fingers.
a) are going to do many more joins over the next few years.
b) have somewhere dry to store the tool between uses.
c) can remember where that safe storage place is when next you need to use it!
d) like having tools to lend to your neighbours, and you have neighbours who'll return them.
e) have a tool to thoroughly clean the inside of a freshly cut pipe without ripping open your fingers.
Yeah, +1 .... really only worth it if you are going to be using it a lot. The only one I would ever recommend would be the long handle mechanical press ones as they are really the only ones that will give consistent results and they aint cheap
The drill bit ones and others are really just a bit of a gimmick and a waste of time and any suitable copper really needs the pipe to be properly annealed to ensure it doesn't crack or tear.
The drill bit ones and others are really just a bit of a gimmick and a waste of time and any suitable copper really needs the pipe to be properly annealed to ensure it doesn't crack or tear.
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I have a set of long-handled Rothenberger fan orifice/pipe stretchers which go 12 up to 28mm iirc.
If your pipe is hard, it splits.
From plumbing up the first block of flats I had donkeys years ago, on, I have a reasonable proficiency with soldering pipes.
But I haven't done it for a while so I'd use solder ring fittings.
They're easier to use under a floor, and not muck up. Some architects/building designers insist on them because they're more reliable. A bag of 5 from Wickes costs nearly nothing.
Cut debur and clean your pipes, clean inside the new fittings with a wire brush.
Laco Flux the pipes, not the fittings. Insert both pipes into fittings, wipe of excess flux (makes it neater) heat the fitting and pipes evenly until you see the solder at the end of the fitting. Done. Wipe with damp cloth when cooler. Check any hidden fitting end with a mirror.
As you're a beginner, have some solder handy in case you do muck it up, but it's absolutely not necessary.
If your pipe is hard, it splits.
From plumbing up the first block of flats I had donkeys years ago, on, I have a reasonable proficiency with soldering pipes.
But I haven't done it for a while so I'd use solder ring fittings.
They're easier to use under a floor, and not muck up. Some architects/building designers insist on them because they're more reliable. A bag of 5 from Wickes costs nearly nothing.
Cut debur and clean your pipes, clean inside the new fittings with a wire brush.
Laco Flux the pipes, not the fittings. Insert both pipes into fittings, wipe of excess flux (makes it neater) heat the fitting and pipes evenly until you see the solder at the end of the fitting. Done. Wipe with damp cloth when cooler. Check any hidden fitting end with a mirror.
As you're a beginner, have some solder handy in case you do muck it up, but it's absolutely not necessary.
Used one going back a few years ,all ok ,but not to sure with the modern copper,personally I’d go with couplings
Sensible approach but don't forget that as far as soldered joints are concerned, once they are made and tested as good, that they are then considered as part of the pipe.
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