took tele off wall, big mess

[JamesAsus]

I put the tele on the wall 3 years ago, did a bit of a bodge job, now ive taken it off I want to get the plaster back to how it was. For the record the plasterboard is the dot and dab type and the space between it and the brick is only 1cm or so, not very much.

Ill start by describing how I put it up. I sawed a long channel of plasterboard out to fix some plastic conduit to the brick so I could put my wires into it. I then got 2 strips of wood, attached them to the brick and then got a new strip of plasterboard and screwed that into the wood and then did a skim coat to bring it up to the original level. I left a square at the top of the channel, and a square at the bottom of the channel to feed the wires to the tv and plug sockets.

When I had done this, the plasterboard strip never matched the rest of the plasterboard's level and no matter how much I tried to get it even by sanding, there was an obvious ridge in the paint so you could see where the plasterboard had been placed.

So now what I want to do is fill both these squares and get it level this time as we are going to be painting this wall and want it to look good. I also want to know if I can just fill the holes with plaster or is there something against that in building regs?

I'm guessing your average polyfilla wont do? I don't want to go down the route of attatching another piece of plasterboard again id rather just fill if I can?

 

[joe-90]

You can fill it with anything like polyfilla or plasterboard adhesive. Nothing to do with any regs whatsoever.

 

[JamesAsus]

You can fill it with anything like polyfilla or plasterboard adhesive. Nothing to do with any regs whatsoever.

So i can literally just keep filling it layer by layer until it becomes flush to the surrounding plaster?

If so how do i ensure a smooth finish, i dont need to use anything fancy do i like that mesh tape?

 

[roy c]

I would fill the holes in with plaster board dabbed on the back just below finished surface them scrim tape around the edges and "skim" over it with easifil then gently sand it down to your original wall surface then put a mist coat on it, then see if you have any hollows or dips then fill them with easifil if you have and sand again till nice and flat then another mist coat and a couple of top coats of paint and should be a "Good un"

 

[JamesAsus]

I would fill the holes in with plaster board dabbed on the back just below finished surface them scrim tape around the edges and "skim" over it with easifil then gently sand it down to your original wall surface then put a mist coat on it, then see if you have any hollows or dips then fill them with easifil if you have and sand again till nice and flat then another mist coat and a couple of top coats of paint and should be a "Good un"

Do i really need to do all this scrim tape etc its just more things for me to mess up on lol.

 

[roughcaster]

As Roy says, always scrim tape any joints etc before filling, skimming etc. If done properly, and sanded down, you'll never know the damage was there,,, honestly.

 

[JamesAsus]

As Roy says, always scrim tape any joints etc before filling, skimming etc. If done properly, and sanded down, you'll never know the damage was there,,, honestly.

So when you say scrim tape joints, which bit exactly do you put the tape i dont understand, do i bring it flush to the rest of the plasterboard then put tape over that joint then fill it over again

 

[roughcaster]

I'm the same as Roy,,, tape around all the edges/joints, putting the tape on 50/50,, half the tape width onto the new plasteboard patch, the other onto the original wall surface. Bring the patch itself out to the flush with filler, then leave it to set. One the filler has set, go over it again (maybe twice) with ready mix joint finish, also going over onto the original area of wall surrounding the patch. This is called "feathering". This is the bit that really finishes the job off properly and if done correctly, you'll never notice the patch. There's more to this than you think. Once the patch has been filled out, feathered away and neatly sanded down,,,it's ready to paint as Roy said.

 

[JamesAsus]

I'm the same as Roy,,, tape around all the edges/joints, putting the tape on 50/50,, half the tape width onto the new plasteboard patch, the other onto the original wall surface. Bring the patch itself out to the flush with filler, then leave it to set. One the filler has set, go over it again (maybe twice) with ready mix joint finish, also going over onto the original area of wall surrounding the patch. This is called "feathering". This is the bit that really finishes the job off properly and if done correctly, you'll never notice the patch. There's more to this than you think. Once the patch has been filled out, feathered away and neatly sanded down,,,it's ready to paint as Roy said.

So basically the plaster in that area is going to be slightly raised in order to cover the scrim tape? So its not going to be flat??

 

[joe-90]

No need for scrim if you are pushing a load of addy back onto the wall and under join. Just fill it slightly proud and sand it with a block.

 

[JamesAsus]

So from googling it seems using a new plasterboard patch stuck to wood which is stuck to the other plasterboard is the best way, would people agree?

If so how do i make sure it ends up flat, if i put scrim tape in the joints then fill it, if i sand it back to level you will see the tape so wont it be obvious where the join is?

 

[joe-90]

If you scrim it you skim it. Simples.

 

[JamesAsus]

If you scrim it you skim it. Simples.

What?

Im a complete noob with plastering

 

[joe-90]

Then do it as I told you to. If you use scrim you need to skim. You worked that one out yourself.