Transition block paving to grass

[ldoodle]

Hi,

I need some inspiration! Our driveway is 2/3 paving 1/3 grass. I've just relaid about 4 courses because where it meets the grass it had all sunk massively.

The edge pavers have nothing holding/locking them in. I'm going to dig out about 2 inches worth of grass because I don't want it near the pavers, but I'm struggling with ideas to fill the gap... something that will lock in the edge ones. The grass sits a bit taller than the pavers (by about an inch) and I'd want it flush with the grass.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

 

[daggermark]

Are you saying that the soldier course of blocks aren't cemented in place?

 

[ldoodle]

Yeah, that's right. They're not really solider course though; they follow the same direction as the rest of them just in a different colour.

 

[daggermark]

I think you will struggle without taking the final course up and re-setting it in mortar, but hopefully somebody else has a creative idea!

 

[foxhole]

Any edge needs setting in deep mortar to make it secure.

 

[conny]

Lift out the edge row and dig at least another 6", (150mm in new money), so you now have a trench the width of your paving block and 6" PLUS the depth of your block, (maybe 2" but best to measure it). Then lay a 1" (25mm) bed of small shingle. On top of the shingle pour cement until it is about 3/8" (10mm), BELOW the edge of where the remaining blocks sit. Allow the cement to dry. On top of this cement you can lay a bed of mortar slightly more than 10mm thick on which you cam now bed the removed blocks, tapping them down to the same level as your other blocks.
It is actually better to have your lawn slightly proud of the blocks to make it easier when mowing. It prevents the mower blades from hitting the blocks and damaging both the blocks and the blades of the mower.

 

[ldoodle]

It is actually better to have your lawn slightly proud of the blocks to make it easier when mowing. It prevents the mower blades from hitting the blocks and damaging both the blocks and the blades of the mower.

That's a good tip. Thanks

 

[foxhole]

Lift out the edge row and dig at least another 6", (150mm in new money), so you now have a trench the width of your paving block and 6" PLUS the depth of your block, (maybe 2" but best to measure it). Then lay a 1" (25mm) bed of small shingle. On top of the shingle pour cement until it is about 3/8" (10mm), BELOW the edge of where the remaining blocks sit. Allow the cement to dry. On top of this cement you can lay a bed of mortar slightly more than 10mm thick on which you cam now bed the removed blocks, tapping them down to the same level as your other blocks.
It is actually better to have your lawn slightly proud of the blocks to make it easier when mowing. It prevents the mower blades from hitting the blocks and damaging both the blocks and the blades of the mower.

I would have blocks 40-50 mm higher than lawn edge then no chance of hitting with mower blade , would imagine higher grass edge would result in soil erosion and mower hitting blocks.?

 

[conny]

The trouble with having the blocks higher to prevent blade damage means the grass grows up against the blocks so you have to strim the edge or use a pair of edging shears.
Both a PITA!
My own lawns are level with the brick edging we have forming pathways so we can cut along the edge without the need for strimming.

 

[EddieM]

Of course, this could be easily solved by being able to buy soldier set blocks, in other words the top like a set block but 300mm deep.

 

[jimlad]

Any reason to not use 1mtr long edging, you can get them 20cm deep over here in Holland, generally they don't move because of the surface area, and the ends are male female, but you could add some mix behind if you want to really annoy the next guy to work on the paving

 

[ldoodle]

It was all a bit of bodge when it was done (before I bought the house) so down 2 edges I have those edging stone things @jimlad mentioned but not the last edge which meets the lawn... they actually used a hammer/chisel combo, very badly, to cut pavers in half so they're all jagged-edged and some even like 8-10mm shorter than they should be! A grinder is what, less than £20 for a very basic one which would have made a much better job!