TWO switches on my hot water tank?

[rev]

Hi -

I'd appreciate some expert advice please.

I've recently had the stat changed on my hot water tank.

Upon looking at the tank, I've noticed that there are TWO switches on the wall. They were both there before the work was carried out, I just never noticed:

the top one, which has been replaced runs to the stat on top of the tank.
The bottom one appears to run to the thermostatic control dial, and another beige box which I've got no clue as to its function.

As I understand it, the top switch controls the heating of water electrically, but I'm not sure as to the function of the lower switch.

Could somebody tell me;

1) is having 2 switches normal? Does the bottom switch, running to the thermostat dial switch have to be 'on' to use hot water via the Gas central heating system?

2) What is the biege/white box to the right of the thermostat dial for, the flex runs to that too.

Some explanations (worded on the basis that I'm pretty clueless about this) would be really appreciated!

thanks

Matt

Reading berks

 

[Bambergaspipe]

Think you have two spurs so you can turn off your immersion heater, without turning off the live feed to your cylinder stat, in other words the electrician has used the earth live and neutral already there to power your cylinder stat, to the one heating your water, he`s added a spur to a fused spur which is probably not up to current regulations but I don`t think he was a proper spark tho`was he. bit of a mate was he. What do you expect. The beige box on the right is your three port valve. thiis directs the heat produced at the boiler to heat up your hot water via your cylinder or towards your radiators.

 

[plumbnuts]

This is a example of poor wiring. The central heating system should only be served by one 3 Amp fused connection unit which ideally would be sited in close proximity to the boiler. It's not to current standards but like many thousands of others. Just be wary if working on the system that it is fully isolated for your safety.
Steve

 

[seco services]

wheres your vent pipe from the top of the cylinder ?

 

[Bambergaspipe]

wheres your vent pipe from the top of the cylinder ?

Think that has already been incorporated in the spur from the fused spur.

 

[rev]

Thanks Guys

The guy who changed the internal stat was a qualified sparky but only had instructions to 'replace the faulty stat' hence why he's left it as is I presume.

So should I leave that lower switch on, or off as it is in the pic? Does it being off make a difference to my hot water temp - I'm guessing the lower switch needs to be on, even when heating water via the gas central heating system - is that right?! or am I way off the mark.

Thanks so much for your time!

matt

 

[Bambergaspipe]

They both appear to be off. The top one would appear to be linked to your immersion heater which is normally a backup should your boiler fail, do you have heating and hot water a clue would be handy.

 

[rev]

heating water via the gas central heating system

Thanks for the replies so far,

You're right, both switches are currently off, which is how the sparky left them when he finished.

I've got a full Gas powered boiler & central heating system which is how we normally heat the water.

Given that method of heating the water, does it matter if the live feed to my cylinder stat is switched off? or does that stat control water temperature however you heat it (i.e either with Gas or the electric immersion)

Or does the cylinder stat feed need to be left on (the bottom switch)?

Thanks again

Matt [/b]

 

[Dan Robinson]

What an abortion!

That cylinder looks lethal as well.

 

[Bambergaspipe]

Or does the cylinder stat feed need to be left on

If everythings working mate, what`s the problem. Ìf you`re concerned you need to get a spark out and check what`s what, it doesn`t look like the greatest setup in the world, I`d have it checked out.

 

[Dan Robinson]

As Seco mentioned there is no vent on that cylinder - another Bamber bomb

 

[rev]

I guess what I'm trying to get to the bottom of the setup as I'm unfamiliar with it.

My basic quesiton is, in your opinion

Should I leave the bottom switch on or off?


If I leave the bottom switch ON will my immersion heater be running 24/7 and costing me a fortune?

Its a switch for the thermostat dial not the internal heating element so it shouldn't right?


Not much I can do about the overall setup I'm afraid. I'm not in the house long so I can live with it in the short term, I just want to figure out how it works properly!

EDIT:

is this the vent on teh right of the tank, it was out of shot in the first pic:

Thanks again for all your advice.

Matt

 

[seco services]

this will be you and your ventless cylinder when you cylinder overheats.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ekEHfihiNz4

 

[Bambergaspipe]

As Seco mentioned there is no vent on that cylinder - another Bamber bomb

Don`t see any Earthing on the pipes either, another Robinson bomb.. he asked about his electrics yawwwwwwwwwn......

 

[Bambergaspipe]

this will be you and your ventless cylinder when you cylinder overheats.

I wouldn`t have a party in your pants just yet, I`ve seen cylinders vented from further down the hot draw off, just because it`s not conventional doesn`t mean it hasn`t been done or won`t work.