Type, thickness and fixing of attic insulation?

Joined
7 Aug 2014
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Location
Tyne and Wear
Country
United Kingdom
Evening,

I recently bought a house and the attic space has no insulation. It's been very sunny recently and the rooms have been scorching. In winter it's going to be cold! I've taken down the old lath and plaster and have ended up with this:


The rafters are 60mm deep at 400mm centres. There are Velux skylights in both rooms.

I've not insulated anything other than non-habitable loft space using glass wool so I've had a look into various insulation options from Recitel, Celotex and Kingspan. I also had a quick read about Triso Super 10 yesterday.

I spoke to Celotex on the phone who were not helpful. Kingspan haven't called back yet. I must admit I'm a bit lost!

From what I've read the more insulation the better but I'm limited in what I can use under rafters as the rooms are not particularly large. I'm currently think around 75mm PIR board + 12.5mm plasterboard, based on general advice from an Energy Saving Trust document and what I've read on the net? I know that I need a 50mm air gap so whatever I choose I can't put anything between the rafters.

I've whittled it down to two options (comment/criticism welcome!):

1. Build up the rafters with wood. Cut insulation board down to place between rafters (filling gaps where necessary), leaving a 50mm air gap and then fix plasterboard to the rafters.

2. Fix boards directly onto underside of rafters (cutting down to sit between rafter width where necessary and joining with foil tape). Fix plasterboard on top. One disadvantage I can see is that I'll need drywall fixing screws with a length of at least 110mm, which are pricey but probably cheaper than building up the rafters!

Any thoughts on PIR board or something like Triso Super 10? Any recommendations on thickness of material and fixing?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
Sponsored Links
The multi foil products do work, but really need top spec installation to perform (well fitted, no gaps) probably a bit fiddly to retrofit in your situation, and prone to cold bridging around the edges where it will meet wall junctions, for it to work properly it really needs to wrap the building, not just be fitting within a panel in the wall.

Rigid boards will be better in your situation.

Option 2 will be better thermally.
 
Do you have felt under the tiles or is it a breathable membrane or maybe nothing at all? Are there vents in the eaves and/or ridge. It looks like you have a couple of purlins going on there, what is the longest span of the rafters?

Forget all about the multi-foils they are a waste of money: //www.diynot.com/forums/your-projects/multifoil-insulation.408089/

At first glance you would probably be best fitting something like 35mm Celotex or Kingspan (or any other 'PIR' insulation between the rafters then adding a continuous layer of say 40mm over the rafters, then your plasterboard. It wouldn't meet modern standards but will be a great improvement.
 
Do you have felt under the tiles or is it a breathable membrane or maybe nothing at all? Are there vents in the eaves and/or ridge. It looks like you have a couple of purlins going on there, what is the longest span of the rafters?

I *think* this is a membrane and not felt but I've never dealt with anything in the roof before so I'm unsure:


There are a few vents in apex of the roof and some on the eaves:


As for the longest unsupported length of rafter, it's about 200cm. The entire length of the rafter is about 370cm but supported by a purlin and a ceiling joist:


You mention that it'd be a good idea to place PIR between the rafters - what about the 50mm air gap? I have seen the 25mm air gap mentioned quite a bit but it's been tricky to work out when that applies.
 
Sponsored Links
OK so having vents top and bottom is good. 50mm is ideal but if space is a premium then 25mm will be OK.

Have a look at this fella, it shows the principle that you should be aiming at with how thw insulation can be dealt with in the dwarf walls:

 
OK so having vents top and bottom is good. 50mm is ideal but if space is a premium then 25mm will be OK.

Righto, thanks.

My eaves don't overhang the exterior wall, so I assume putting some ventilation in the cavity provided by the dwarf wall will be OK?

Re: air gap, spoke to Kingspan who said 50mm is required if membrane is not breathable. Any ideas if my membrane is breathable?
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top