Underfloor heating single room

[Benway]

Hello.

I'm slowly planning converting half the garage into a utility. As part of this I have to raise the floor (concrete), and also provide some heat into the room. Killing two birds with one stone and all that, has anyone any experience of a system such as:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10SQM-DAN...TOR-EXTENSION-CONVERSION-SYSTEM-/160919319696

Seems exactly what I need.

Cheers

 

[SandyLyon]

How much are you raising the floor by and are you just putting screed on top of the existing concrete ?

Tha kit that you have seen is for use in a floor screed. Generally you would need to put some insulation down (Kingspan or the like) otherwise a lot of the heat will travel downwards and it will take much longer to reach temperature and will not be very economic to run.

The insulation would be anything from 50mm upwards (check local regs) and a minimum of 75mm screed covering the pipes.

So typically you would need a minimum of 125mm but more likely 150mm plus your floor covering. I think that Danfoss use a Return Limiter Valve rather than a Blending Valve.

 

[Agile]

It may sound like a good idea to you.

But a very expensive one as you will need completely separate controls as it will need to operate at different times!

Not a good idea at all in my view!

Tony

 

[Benway]

Depth is 170mm so was going to go for 100mm Kingspan with 70mm screed. I can see the different controls would be nice, but are they needed? Chances are I'll need the heat the same time the heating is on, or is there too much of a delay to get the slab up to temperature?
It's a utility/mud room so will get minimal use, just thought as I was doing the slab it would be nice to try wet underfloor heating, or would it be £200 down the drain?

Cheers for the input.

 

[willie68]

I'm converting my loft into a store-room, mainly for my guitars and amps, and I'm planning to run some pipes underneath the floorboards with little or no control as all I need is enough warmth to keep the damp out. It sounds like that's all you need as well.We have the central heating on 24/7at a pretty low temp, rarely higher than 17/18 degrees and I'm hoping the hot water flowing through the pipes will keep the loft warm without the need for expensive kits and control units.
I will add that I'm no expert and I'm on here for advice the same as you are but so far no-one has told me that what I'm planning is wrong or won't work.

 

[Agile]

Depth is 170mm so was going to go for 100mm Kingspan with 70mm screed. I can see the different controls would be nice, but are they needed? Chances are I'll need the heat the same time the heating is on, or is there too much of a delay to get the slab up to temperature?
It's a utility/mud room so will get minimal use, just thought as I was doing the slab it would be nice to try wet underfloor heating, or would it be £200 down the drain?

Cheers for the input.

That kind of construction takes about TWO hours to heat up the room and stays hot for up to two hours after heating s turned off.

Since you normally need a separate pump for the UFH anyway a timeclock is not much extra.

A very expensive way to fit heating to a room!

Tony

 

[Stephen7]

The Danfoss control you mention is only suitable for an area of no more than 10m2 and will only come on as part of the existing heating system therefore the timing is quite important.
If you want individual control you will need to install a single port (depending on the area) manifold kit with a thermostat - if you then use
2 x 2 port zone valves then the new area would be completely independent of the rest of the heating.
The ideal route depends on both the area and the use of the room.

 

[Benway]

Think I'm going to give it a go.

The Danfoss unit will give me some control, It's a utility room so will have minimal use, probably at the same time the rest of the house will have the heating on. It's about 6sq M once all the cabinets are in.

Worst case, I've wasted £200. I'll post pics once I get round to it.

Cheers all.

 

[Stephen7]

If you pipe it with the thought that you may have to change it to a pumped arrangement in the future, other than the purchase of the FHV-R valve (make sure you get the temperature sensor), you can use all the rest of the equipment you install.