unskilled newb swapping over water cylinders

[zebbedy]

Hi there had a leak in my tank and tried to epoxy it but no go so got a new tank and swapped them over, tightened them up (was a bit tight getting the fittings back on but they are going on, have tightened them down and put the water back on and the flow/return is dripping a bit

did 8-10 wraps of ptfe tape, need more?

have tightnened them down fairly tight not sure how tight i should go or if i should just take the tank out again and re-apply the tape and try again?

thanks for any insight

 

[Burnerman]

Copper cylinders need connections that don't strain anything......if the tank is pushed out of shape it will bite you back one day.
Always use a sealant on the joints, plus tape as well.
Did you tape around the olive or around the threads? Around the olive is the only way.
John

 

[ALCPlumbing]

If the flow/return pipes are unions to the cylinder leaking?

Are they compression?

Or soldered?

Pointing paste is the way forward.

If they are soldered unions I tend to solder a bit of pipe into them out of place first.

Explain where it's leaking from.

 

[zebbedy]

they are compression joints, the drip is coming from the bit screwed in to the tank itself (return bottom one) then there is another bolt, I tightened it and appears to have stopped but need to monitor the situation as stated/ above don't want it messing up overnight or when I'm away and exploding all over the shop, I taped all threaded connectors

all the connections were in the same place etc as exact same tank

thanks a lot for your insight

 

[Armo74]

Tape the olive not the thread.

 

[ALCPlumbing]

He just said its leaking on the union connection to cylinder not the compression side. These are quite prone to leaking as they can be difficult to tighten due to the foam insulation. I quite often cut some away. Paste definitely helps are add more tape around the ribbed part that contacts the cylinder connection.

Keep an eye on it as you might find it will start dripping again with the heating and cooling of the water.

 

[zebbedy]

thanks again for the help

its slowly filling up as the gate valve just keeps spinning so waiting to see what the deal is, can feel definite moisture around it after wiping it but no drip, as stated will be a diff story when it is full of hot water

 

[Armo74]

Make sure you leave the hot taps open whilst filling to release the air.

 

[zebbedy]

thanks for the tip ill bear that in mind when i have another bash tomorrow, looks like still dripping ever so slightly so will strip it tomorrow and try again (oh joy ) , need a new immersion too should have seen the state of it, all exploded and wires sticking out all over the shop and the white powder inside the element must have went into the water, also covered in silty grime as the supply is peaty bog water

just worried as these things are fragile and dont wanna break it

so ptfe on the olive also?

 

[Plumber90]

There is no need for ptfe on olives, you use jointing compound on olives. There is something wrong if you need to use ptfe.

 

[Richardthe3rd]

PTFE on olives is only done by course cowboys & DaftyDIYers. Joint paste should always be used on olives.

 

[Agile]

If its acid water I hope you are buying an ALL incaloy immersion element.

Some still have a copper pocket!

Tony

 

[Norcon]

Copper cylinders need connections that don't strain anything......if the tank is pushed out of shape it will bite you back one day.
Always use a sealant on the joints, plus tape as well.
Did you tape around the olive or around the threads? Around the olive is the only way.
John

Spot on.
Desperate Dan will be along in a moment bragging he can seal 2" bsp male iron threading on a high temp/high pressure steam system with a single wrap of ptfe.

 

[slapper]

Been Plumbing for many years and never ever put PTFE tape on olives.

Totally agree with Pullers comments, Yeehaa