Hi folks,
Continuing my brick shed roof after a year’s absence!
See previous thread –
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1729028#1729028
Recap:
Building is 7.8m x 2.6m
Three sides ½ brick with piers, window/door side cavity with brick/block
Final Apex height 2.5m, pitch 10 deg
13 joist (125mm x 47mm) with solid firing on top (250mm – 0mm at 47mm thick) fixed at 600mm centres.
2 gable solid rafters 47mm
Ridge noggins between all rafters
Simpsons JHA timber to timber joist hangers bend over on to wallplates used.
I have finally purchase the metal tile effect roof sheets, Versasteel pantile type, weight is 5kg/m.
The sheets are only 1300mm long and a tile length is 350mm. It needs fixing at the drop of each tile, so 4 battens.
The fitting instructions say batten size 32mm x 100, the tekscrews I have are 27mm long.
I was going to deck the roof with 18mm ply, but the screws would poke through.
I’ve seen some treated decking (type used for patios), its size is 125mm x 32mm at 4.2m long. One side is solid the other grooved. Could these be used as battens ?
Also this would cover 4 x 125mm = 500mm of roof, might as well cover the other (1300mm – 500mm) = 800mm as well ?
I could fix them with the plain side facing out with a 5mm gap between for expansion.
I need 1300mm / (125mm + 5mm) = 10 lengths to do a ¼ of the roof, so 40 lengths in all.
Guess I’d have to make sure a tekscrew didn’t land in a 5mm gap!
They could be staggered i.e 2 at 3.9m joined at centre rafter for full length of 7.8m, then 2.1m + 3.6m +2.1m on next row etc….
Would also leave a gap at ridge for ventilation.
I have the roofing felt (Tyvek Supro) this could be stapled/fixed to plain outside of the decking.
The felt says ideal for metal roofs, can be in direct contact with materials and doesn’t require ventilation. In this case though the eaves and ridge will be left open so air can circulate between roof sheet profile and felt for condensation.
Will also add some DPC fixed at eaves hanging into gutter to provide eaves protection. Double sided butyl tape used to stick felt to DPC
Advantages are:
Thicker than 18mm ply, screw won’t poke through.
Decking can be installed from inside building
Price cheaper than good quality ply
Treated
Easy to cut and manage
Not Sure:
What fixing and size to use, i.e screws, galvanised nails etc..
Weight of 40 x 4.2m decking plus 110kg of roof sheets ?
Are the above ideas feasible ?
Are there any problems with doing things this way?
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated
Thanks in advance
Brewhut
Continuing my brick shed roof after a year’s absence!
See previous thread –
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1729028#1729028
Recap:
Building is 7.8m x 2.6m
Three sides ½ brick with piers, window/door side cavity with brick/block
Final Apex height 2.5m, pitch 10 deg
13 joist (125mm x 47mm) with solid firing on top (250mm – 0mm at 47mm thick) fixed at 600mm centres.
2 gable solid rafters 47mm
Ridge noggins between all rafters
Simpsons JHA timber to timber joist hangers bend over on to wallplates used.
I have finally purchase the metal tile effect roof sheets, Versasteel pantile type, weight is 5kg/m.
The sheets are only 1300mm long and a tile length is 350mm. It needs fixing at the drop of each tile, so 4 battens.
The fitting instructions say batten size 32mm x 100, the tekscrews I have are 27mm long.
I was going to deck the roof with 18mm ply, but the screws would poke through.
I’ve seen some treated decking (type used for patios), its size is 125mm x 32mm at 4.2m long. One side is solid the other grooved. Could these be used as battens ?
Also this would cover 4 x 125mm = 500mm of roof, might as well cover the other (1300mm – 500mm) = 800mm as well ?
I could fix them with the plain side facing out with a 5mm gap between for expansion.
I need 1300mm / (125mm + 5mm) = 10 lengths to do a ¼ of the roof, so 40 lengths in all.
Guess I’d have to make sure a tekscrew didn’t land in a 5mm gap!
They could be staggered i.e 2 at 3.9m joined at centre rafter for full length of 7.8m, then 2.1m + 3.6m +2.1m on next row etc….
Would also leave a gap at ridge for ventilation.
I have the roofing felt (Tyvek Supro) this could be stapled/fixed to plain outside of the decking.
The felt says ideal for metal roofs, can be in direct contact with materials and doesn’t require ventilation. In this case though the eaves and ridge will be left open so air can circulate between roof sheet profile and felt for condensation.
Will also add some DPC fixed at eaves hanging into gutter to provide eaves protection. Double sided butyl tape used to stick felt to DPC
Advantages are:
Thicker than 18mm ply, screw won’t poke through.
Decking can be installed from inside building
Price cheaper than good quality ply
Treated
Easy to cut and manage
Not Sure:
What fixing and size to use, i.e screws, galvanised nails etc..
Weight of 40 x 4.2m decking plus 110kg of roof sheets ?
Are the above ideas feasible ?
Are there any problems with doing things this way?
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated
Thanks in advance
Brewhut