I had my heating system power flushed a few weeks ago, conventional boiler system. Two questions if anybody can help. When the hot water heating starts up, normally twice a day, there is alot of water 'rushing' and gurgling sounds from the pipework in the airing cupboard which it didn't use to do before power flush. A new pump was fitted also as old one really gunged up, speed set on 3. The red valve handles at the bottom of the photo are not full open. Should they be? Other question is regarding the air bleed vent at the top of the pipe in the other picture, I am getting air that needs bleeding from two of the upstairs rads every couple of days, not much but enough to make is sound if a ball bearing is rattling about. The bleed valve at the top of the pipe won't bleed air or water. The hole must be blocked, I have cleaned it out once before but only on a drained down system. If I try it with a filled system and clear the hole am I going to get a fountain like jet of water that would prevent me getting the screw cap back on?
![GALLERY]](http://[GALLERY=media, 68630][/GALLERY] [GALLERY=media, 68629][/GALLERY])
valves in airing cupboard
- Thread starter pandaman
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That bleed valve needs clearing as there is almost certainly air in that circuit which is the cause of the gurgling. It will create a jet of water but if you shut everything down first and have plenty of towels around you should get away with it - just don't drop the screw in the process!
When you say the gate valves are not fully open, how far open are they? Any gate valve in the fully open position should always be shut down half a turn to prevent it seizing in the fully open position, so it may just be that. You need to clarify.
When you say the gate valves are not fully open, how far open are they? Any gate valve in the fully open position should always be shut down half a turn to prevent it seizing in the fully open position, so it may just be that. You need to clarify.
The RH valve is a system bypass and should have been set by your powerflush man. The LH valve is a cylinder balance valve and ditto.
Sorry for delay in replying, at work, still am, so not sure how far valves knobs are on but will check when I get home. Thanks for the advice both of you appreciate it.
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LH valve has to go over 2 complete turns before fully open, RH one just over I complete turn. Is this right? Another post mentions similar problem with noisy pipes when hot water only is on and some replies say could be air trapped, poster asks how to bleed that, but no replies.
The bypass can be shut as it's not required on your current system. What boiler do you have?
It's a Glow Worm economy plus.
What if there are TRV's fitted?
There are no trvs in the system. Why can I turn that valve off? I am assuming it has never been off berore but can't guarantee that. Should mention that boiler is a conventional one, you probably know that, and is 18 years old but in good condition.
Even with no TRV's fitted the bypass should be adjusted in relation to the cylinder balance valve. In the Summer all the water including pump over run will go through the HW circuit,(the heat port is closed) hence the need for the correct adjustment of both valves. That is why today, manual bypass valves have been replaced with automatic ones.
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Power flushing and a new pump will not have been cheap, get 'em back to sort it out 
Yes I am trying to do this, emailed a few days ago but no answer, have just sent another to them.
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