VITCAS Render and Plaster

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Can anyone advise where I can buy Vitcas Render and Vitcas Plaster cheaper than Vitcas sell it?

20kg for £35.99 does not seem too bad but I need 3 tubs of this and the £25 delivery cost seems excessive?

Thanks.
 
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Think your stuffed my friend; I use the finishing plaster on fire surrounds & have tried (I even contacted them) but they don’t seem to have any stockists & only sell it direct. Unless anyone else knows different :confused:


Regarding heat proof render you can use a sand/cement/lime render (5:1:1-6:1:1) which will work just as well if you apply it correctly. Don’t be tempted to use Gypsum based plaster or plasterboard within 800mm above or 300mm either side of the fire, it’ll fail if regularly exposed to temperatures in excess of 49 degrees.
 
Think your stuffed my friend; I use the finishing plaster on fire surrounds & have tried (I even contacted them) but they don’t seem to have any stockists & only sell it direct. Unless anyone else knows different :confused:


Regarding heat proof render you can use a sand/cement/lime render (5:1:1-6:1:1) which will work just as well if you apply it correctly. Don’t be tempted to use Gypsum based plaster or plasterboard within 800mm above or 300mm either side of the fire, it’ll fail if regularly exposed to temperatures in excess of 49 degrees.

Where do you get a 6:1:1 render from? I've seen mortars described as 6:1:1 but they say only for use with brickwork and blockwork.
 
Where do you get a 6:1:1 render from? I've seen mortars described as 6:1:1 but they say only for use with brickwork and blockwork.
There no real difference although in some applications a mortar mix might be made using sharp sand instead of building/plastering sand. Hanson used to make a bag ready mix lime render which I’ve used before but not for a while. With larger quantities best to mix your own, you will almost certainly need a slightly stronger mix (5:1:1) for the scratch coat.
 
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Where do you get a 6:1:1 render from? I've seen mortars described as 6:1:1 but they say only for use with brickwork and blockwork.
There no real difference although in some applications a mortar mix might be made using sharp sand instead of building/plastering sand. Hanson used to make a bag ready mix lime render which I’ve used before but not for a while. With larger quantities best to mix your own, you will almost certainly need a slightly stronger mix (5:1:1) for the scratch coat.


stornger is not the case with this sort of job because stronger mixes tend to crack. Mix ratios when you use lime is also debatable and depends on the sand, quality of lime and how dry/dence the mix is, so, your mixes are not nailed on, sir.
 
stornger is not the case with this sort of job because stronger mixes tend to crack. Mix ratios when you use lime is also debatable and depends on the sand, quality of lime and how dry/dence the mix is, so, your mixes are not nailed on, sir.

Yes strong mixes tend to crack, I’m not an experienced render expert like yourself but I do a bit. My point was that the subsequent mix should be weaker then the previous.
Anything else you want to pull me up on peaps, beginning to wish I hadn’t bothered this morning. :rolleyes:
 
stornger is not the case with this sort of job because stronger mixes tend to crack. Mix ratios when you use lime is also debatable and depends on the sand, quality of lime and how dry/dence the mix is, so, your mixes are not nailed on, sir.

Yes strong mixes tend to crack, I’m not an experienced render expert like yourself but I do a bit. My point was that the subsequent mix should be weaker then the previous.
Anything else you want to pull me up on peaps, beginning to wish I hadn’t bothered this morning. :rolleyes:

Peaps hasn't mix lime for years. I will add that you don't use cement with NHL lime, cement was used years back because we didn't have NHL limes. You also need to weigh your mix with bone dry good quality sand because the water content changes the ratio of the mix.

You should keep the render the same ratio all the way because of the heat, don't stick to the 1.4 scratch, 1.5 float method. I've mixed lime renders for nearly 40 years.
 
Peaps hasn't mix lime for years. I will add that you don't use cement with NHL lime, cement was used years back because we didn't have NHL limes. You also need to weigh your mix with bone dry good quality sand because the water content changes the ratio of the mix.

You should keep the render the same ratio all the way because of the heat, don't stick to the 1.4 scratch, 1.5 float method. I've mixed lime renders for nearly 40 years.

You've put the wrong name on this post xblack/peaps. :LOL: :LOL:
 
Peaps hasn't mix lime for years. I will add that you don't use cement with NHL lime, cement was used years back because we didn't have NHL limes. You also need to weigh your mix with bone dry good quality sand because the water content changes the ratio of the mix.

You should keep the render the same ratio all the way because of the heat, don't stick to the 1.4 scratch, 1.5 float method. I've mixed lime renders for nearly 40 years.

You've put the wrong name on this post xblack/peaps. :LOL: :LOL:

No he didn't. It's my pc he was on and always is on because he hasn't got one. He's working on my limecrete floors, told him not to use my account but he didn't log out, simple. He's still here, three sheets to the wind as usual, asleep on the floor infact, good plasterer, bad ****head.
 
Peaps hasn't mix lime for years. I will add that you don't use cement with NHL lime, cement was used years back because we didn't have NHL limes. You also need to weigh your mix with bone dry good quality sand because the water content changes the ratio of the mix.

You should keep the render the same ratio all the way because of the heat, don't stick to the 1.4 scratch, 1.5 float method. I've mixed lime renders for nearly 40 years.

You've put the wrong name on this post xblack/peaps. :LOL: :LOL:

No he didn't. It's my pc he was on and always is on because he hasn't got one. He's working on my limecrete floors, told him not to use my account but he didn't log out, simple. He's still here, three sheets to the wind as usual, asleep on the floor infact, good plasterer, bad p****d.

Yeh but,, no but,, yeh but,,,,, errr,, uuummmm,,, ""well,,,, he's on my pc, coz he hasn't got one. errm,,, I told him not to use my account, but he didn't log out"". Oh my God!!!,, and then you say he's drunk, "as usual",, and that he's asleep on the floor he's supposed to be laying,,, get a grip peaps,,, what a load of tosh you come out with,, rather than just admit you've been rumbled,, silly twerp!! :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :rolleyes:
 
stornger is not the case with this sort of job because stronger mixes tend to crack. Mix ratios when you use lime is also debatable and depends on the sand, quality of lime and how dry/dence the mix is, so, your mixes are not nailed on, sir.

Yes strong mixes tend to crack, I’m not an experienced render expert like yourself but I do a bit. My point was that the subsequent mix should be weaker then the previous.
Anything else you want to pull me up on peaps, beginning to wish I hadn’t bothered this morning. :rolleyes:

Peaps hasn't mix lime for years. I will add that you don't use cement with NHL lime, cement was used years back because we didn't have NHL limes. You also need to weigh your mix with bone dry good quality sand because the water content changes the ratio of the mix.

You should keep the render the same ratio all the way because of the heat, don't stick to the 1.4 scratch, 1.5 float method. I've mixed lime renders for nearly 40 years.

Hardly rumbled... Would be a bit weird :rolleyes: [/b]
 
Can anyone advise where I can buy Vitcas Render and Vitcas Plaster cheaper than Vitcas sell it?

20kg for £35.99 does not seem too bad but I need 3 tubs of this and the £25 delivery cost seems excessive?

Thanks.

you might find it on ebay.co.uk - they offer it more or less same price but much cheaper delivery.
 
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