Vokera Linea 735 leaking water from motorized Valve

[thebadger33]

Hi, HEEEEEEEELLLLLP!!

I have a Vokera Linea 735 Combi Boiler that has just starting leaking from what looks like the motorized valve. It has also developed an intermittent problem with the hot water whereby when you turn the hot tap on it heats up and then cools down and then heats up and then cools down (you get the picture) and so you do not get constant hot water (not great in the shower!!).

Is the leaking water easy to fix?

Are the problems related?

Your help would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks

 

[nickso]

you will likely need to change the innards of the diverter, there is a kit available. you can supposedly change the front seal that is probably the bit that is leaking, i find they are usually a biatch to get out of the old one and sometimes snap off. save yourself the hassle and just buy a new plastic cover (forgotten its name just now) and screw in a new front seal that will come with the diverter kit.

the hot cold thing could be anything from a dodgy thermistor to a blocked/scaled heatexchanger. is it noisy when in use for HW?

 

[thebadger33]

Thanks Nickso for the prompt reply and advice. I am looking at the exploded diagram of the boiler in the manual and it shows a three way valve overhaul kit; is that what you mean by the innards of the diverter? (Sorry to be specific, but not used to the technical stuff and will probably order the wrong bits if I do not get it clarified).

With regards to the heating up and cooling down, it is not noisy when in use for HW.

 

[Gasinayr]

3 port valve kit. part no 01005127
front cover part no 2904

 

[thebadger33]

Thanks Gasinayr4. Ordered them today and hopefully this will sort out the leaking problem.

CHEERS

 

[ROSSGR]

I had thi problem on a job last week.

The leak from the o-ring usually gets into the mororised valve. Usually knackers them but on this occasionthe fault was on dhw demand the motor was moving in/out/in/out constantly causing hot/cold water delivery.
New motorised valve fitted problem solved.

To check pop the motorised valve off,pull out pin, turn on a hot tap,with little pressure on the brass pin see if the motor is motoring in/out/nowhere

I think it motors out for hot water demand (could be wrong and motor back but think it motors out.

No point fixing the leak and still having no decent HW

 

[thebadger33]

Thank Rossgr. What you say makes complete sense. I will replace the motorized valve as well as it does seem to be where the leaking water comes through. Might as well get the whole job done in one go.

Thanks to everyone for your help with this and will let you know how it goes once the parts have arrived and I have fitted them.

 

[nickso]

the motors often survive unscathed. test it before you buy one.

 

[Agile]

There is no need to change the motor if its not damaged.

But because water may have got into it then it would be a good idea to leave it on top of a hot radiator for a few hours for example to try to dry it out.

Tony

 

[thebadger33]

Thanks for the advice guys. I have already ordered a motor (cost around £37) and for the piece of mind it is worth it for me. I will hold on to the old one just in case I need it again. As long as this solves the problems, money well spent.

Thank you to everyone for your help and support. This is the first time I have been on this forum and have found it invaluable.

Keep up the great work!!

 

[thebadger33]

Hi everyone. As promised, here are the results of the advice from this forum.

The parts I ordered came and I followed the instructions in the manual to take the old parts out and place the new parts in. It was fairly simple and I thought I had it completed, however, when I tried to pressurise the system again, water poured out from the front cover.

I took the parts back out and compared old and new parts and realised the the old cover had a small copper component in the cover which was the seal for the central pin. The new one did not have this seal. I rang a local parts supplier and discovered that this seal is a separate component which I then went out and bought. I fitted the seal (how are you supposed to tighten it as you cannot get any tools to it as it sits deep inside the cover housing. I had to use pointed pliers to do it but there must be a better way!!) and once I put the assembly back together I re-pressurised the system.

So far no leaks and constant hot water.

What a result!!!! (Just remember to order the seal that sits in the cover!)

Thanks again to all your great advice.

 

[nickso]

i told you to buy the diverter kit and you get a new seal with it. a deep 13mm socket is required to tighten. i wouldn't bet on it staying leak free the way you have tightened it.

 

[thebadger33]

I thought I had bought the kit, but there was no seal with it. Never mind, job now done. I will get a deep 13mm socket and nip it up to prevent leaks.

 

[Alfredo]

I used a little box spanner when I overhauled my Linea 28 in my Lincs house. Its a swine if you are not expecting it though. The HW had stopped on mine and the pin the diverter motor acts on had just become crudded up over ten years. I just cleaned it all carefully, as bits are a bit fragile, and all was back to normal. They don't make it easy though at times do they.

Alfredo

 

[DP]

i told you to buy the diverter kit and you get a new seal with it. a deep 13mm socket is required to tighten. i wouldn't bet on it staying leak free the way you have tightened it.

Nickso, I think the point you are making is not being understood. Telly is on but no one is watching. Lights are on but no one is at home.