I had a Vortice Micro 100 T HCS (Timer and Humidistat model) that was fitted by Barratt around 7 years ago and it started to have a bearing problem.
I replaced it with the exact same model of fan, to try to minimise problems when fitting it myself.
However, the new fan just comes on when I turn the isolation switch on (regardless of whether the light is on or not) and just runs continuously. The day I fitted it, it ran for over 12 hours and I just turned it off to have another look at the wiring.
I have bridged terminals L2 and 4 in the same way that Barratt did. According to the manual this puts the fan in high speed mode. Without this bridging wire, the fan doesn't work at all.
The timer pot is set to minimum (around 3 mins) and the humidistat is set to 70% RH, both just like the old unit.
Photos of old unit and new one:
Old Wiring
New Wiring
I can see that on the new unit the red/grey wires on the right-most terminals are swapped, but I assume this is just how it has been manufactured, since the manual doesn't mention anything about doing this.
Can anyone advise?
I replaced it with the exact same model of fan, to try to minimise problems when fitting it myself.
However, the new fan just comes on when I turn the isolation switch on (regardless of whether the light is on or not) and just runs continuously. The day I fitted it, it ran for over 12 hours and I just turned it off to have another look at the wiring.
I have bridged terminals L2 and 4 in the same way that Barratt did. According to the manual this puts the fan in high speed mode. Without this bridging wire, the fan doesn't work at all.
The timer pot is set to minimum (around 3 mins) and the humidistat is set to 70% RH, both just like the old unit.
Photos of old unit and new one:
Old Wiring
New Wiring
I can see that on the new unit the red/grey wires on the right-most terminals are swapped, but I assume this is just how it has been manufactured, since the manual doesn't mention anything about doing this.
Can anyone advise?