Waterproof wall switch connection

[masona]

I have one of these waterproof wall switch.

On the back, it has got 2 terminal on each number 1, 2 & 3, which 2 is the switch for a 1 way switching ?

I'm running a 1.5mm SWA cable from wall lights to the waterproof wall switch then onto my socket inside the workshop.

 

[plugwash]

a few points

1: i doubt you will terminate 2 swa in that box

2: the normal labeleing for auch a switch is com L1 and L2 just try the live in and out in different places until you get it right you can't make it dangerous buy putting the wires in the terminals of the switch wrong

if the light doesn't light at all you have the wires in L1 and L2

if the light switches you have it in the common and one of the other terminals if the switching action is the wrong way up you need the other one out of L1 and L2

also you need a fuse on the light if it's comeing off a socket and you need to be sure the socket is on a cuircuit that it is permissable to spur off (ie on the ring or on a properly protected radial not on a spur from a ring)

what kind of workshop is this? normal practive in workshos is to use normal (not sealed) surface metal fittings

are you useing a waterproof socket in there atm?
do you do wet tasks in there?
if you do wet tasks in there is it frewuently wet or is water only used occasionally?

 

[masona]

Thanks for that,

What I have is a pergola at the bottom of the garden with a twinwall polycarbonate roof sheeting on top so basically everything underneath is weatherproof. The 2 wall light will be connected to the waterproof wall switch and plug into a socket with a 3amp plug in the workshop next to my pergola. I have 4 double metal socket in the workshop on a ring main with a C/Unit. The reason I wanted the waterproof wall switch, I will be having a hot tub and just incase someone switch the light on with wet hands. The waterproof switch is 15' away from the hot tub.

 

[plugwash]

you are not suppsed to plug in fixed equipment and anyway you will never fit a plug to swa

are the workshop and the pergoda attached to each other?

i would run from a socket to a fcu in 2.5mm t&e

from here i would run out to the pregoda if the pergoda buts right up to the workshop i would use arctic blue if i needed to run accross or under the ground at any point i would use swa

from here i would go to a mk masterseal switch (they are much biggere and have more wiring room than the siwtch you show and they don't have a horrible plastic bubble and on to the light i would go from the switch to the light in arctic blue

if the pergoda is open on one side i would definately use an outdoor light and using a suitable outoor type swa gland on any swa and a nylon compression gland on the arctic blue at the switch

in the wall light you need so seal the wire going in if the pergoa is open on one side a gland may be inpractical here (the makers assume you will feed from behind) so silicone sealant may be the best option. what matters is stopping water getting behind the base plate.

 

[masona]

you are not suppsed to plug in fixed equipment and anyway you will never fit a plug to swa

The SWA is clipped under the roofing section in the pergola area and straight into the workshop with a weatherproof connection box via multi-flex cable to plug and socket.

are the workshop and the pergoda attached to each other?

Yes, all three side have a closed board fencing with the flat roof above overhang 30" all round, so no rain can get in at all.

i would use arctic blue

I was going to but then decided to go for a mechanical protection.Maybe I went over the top !

i would go to a mk masterseal switch (they are much biggere and have more wiring room than the siwtch you show and they don't have a horrible plastic bubble

Okay you win, I shall get one of those !

in the wall light you need so seal the wire going in

Agreed, the weatherproof light has been there for over 15 years and the rain can't get to it.

Many thanks for your input but the the biggest problem with these forum is, you cannot not see what our project looks like !!

 

[plugwash]

you still shouldn't be plugging in fixed lighting as i said use a metalclad fcu in place of the existing metal termination box and lead from there in standard twin and earth to the workshop socket.

also whenever terminateing swa outside you need to use special outdoor type swa glands (type CW iirc)

 

[masona]

you still shouldn't be plugging in fixed lighting as i said use a metalclad fcu in place of the existing metal termination box and lead from there in standard twin and earth to the workshop socket.

Okay, no problem.

also whenever terminateing swa outside you need to use special outdoor type swa glands (type CW iirc)

Yes, I have.

Many thanks.

 

[plugwash]

ok something i forgot to mention

when i said standard twind and earth for the connection from the fcu to the ring i mean standard 2.5mm twin and earth
not lighting grade cable....

 

[masona]

Okay, thanks.

I know we should follow regulations but I can't see why you cannot use a 3amp plug via the lights to the workshop socket and switch it off as & when. Basically it's no difference if you use a table lamp ! or am I missing something here ?

Thanks for your help so far.

 

[Big_Spark]

Masona, In large you are correct, there is no esoteric difference, however it is what the Regs and the Law says.

Fixed Equipment..Electrical appliances, equipment or fittings which are anchored permanently in one place as part of their design or have been adapted to this use.

Portable Equipment.. Electrical appliances, equipment or fittings which are designed to be moved from one location to another, normally during use, and/or whilst connected to the source of electrical energy, although this may not always be the case.

Transportable Equipment.. Electrical appliances, equipment or fittings which are designed to be moved after being disconnected from the supply and are too large, either by practical size or mass, to be classed as portable as one person could not move them without mechanical means.