What has he done??

No doubt you have a good understanding of electrics, but it's irrelevant, someone has modified the system, rightly or wrongly, safe or not, and you have used your skill to sort the wiring, the component are what makes it dangerous or not. You have simply got the components working without questioning what does what and why.
 
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mick-uk";p="804461 said:
this was supposidly to stop the boiler banging
.

How was it Banging?? I mean If its a warm air unit it shouldn't bang, or did you mean the cylinder was banging?






the house has a warm air system, it has a very big motor on the back.

they had wired this motor directly to the clock, bypassing the relay for the motor and thus bypassing motors own dedicated supply
If it is a Johnson and starley warm air unit then it will likely have a fan speed control, this alters the current to the fan depending on the boiler temp, if its been bypassed then it will have a huge effect on the economical properties of this boiler.
 
doitall:
I do know what the components do and why, and I checked they were functioniong before i rewired.

I understand all heating systems, c w s y-plan, but to be honest sumtimes struggle to understand what others have done.

I dont install these systems, i'm just very interested in how things are done.. if i dont know i like to try and find out. I just wanted to know why the guy didnt wire the system as a c-plan originaly...& if there was reasoning behing the system he installed.

I think i know why now, lazyness ... tho the system he wired worked just not how my m8 expected, wiring it as a c-plan has more of an advantage.

.......

yes, its not the warm air banging... banging/noisey when on hw... header tanks full.
The guy who wired the system originally poped in some sentinel X200 to try and quieten the system to no avail.

the warm air system has no speed control, it has its own powersupply that is swiched via a 240v relay. the switched live from ch call., triggers relay. (altlest it does now)
 
mick-uk said:
when i asked is he right, all i was baiscally asking is is it common to only used the brown & blue on the valve?
No, it isn't common for a correctly wired two-channel system.

mick-uk, you are right, the "installer" was wrong, and I don't understand why everyone is on your back - they should be ashamed of themselves.
 
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.......... and I don't understand why everyone is on your back - they should be ashamed of themselves.

Are you impersonating a cup of Kenco coffee? because that's really rich.............
 
HNY, oilman. Sense of irony failure on your part, methinks?
 
I think you have missed the point again Softus :rolleyes:

The plumber who obviously hasn't a clue has installed/modified the heater. Mick has come along and wired them, got it working, has the modification made it unsafe, blocked the primary flow/vent off for example.
 
I think you have missed the point
Oh I got the point just fine. I just noticed that there were more negative assumptions flying around than flies near a cow's arse on a hot summer afternoon.

Mick has come along and wired them, got it working, has the modification made it unsafe, blocked the primary flow/vent off for example.
The following post contains a clue:

valve is fitted after the vent
 
I think you have missed the point
Oh I got the point just fine. I just noticed that there were more negative assumptions flying around than flies near a cow's arse on a hot summer afternoon.

Mick has come along and wired them, got it working, has the modification made it unsafe, blocked the primary flow/vent off for example.
The following post contains a clue:

valve is fitted after the vent

And what happens if you block the flow off on an warm air heater.
 
doitall said:
And what happens if you block the flow off on an warm air heater.
You haven't provided enough information for that question to be answerable.

I don't know what "warm air heater" the OP has, and I don't think you do either. He hasn't said whether it's separate to the boiler that was originally banging. Many houses have both a Johnson & Starley type of warm air system with a gas boiler as a heat source, and a separate gas boiler heating the DHW. And many others don't.

You haven't said what you mean by the "flow". You might mean the flow in the circuit of circulating air, or you might mean the flow of air to the combustion chamber of a gas appliance.

If you ask a specific question then I'll answer it, as long as it's on-topic, but the fact that you, and others, are asking vague questions and drawing tenuous inferences leading to pessimistic assumptions about what the OP has, what he's done, and what he's capable of, is what led me to point out that lots of people are on his back.

Why not get the facts straight before criticising him :?:
 
hi
just been to my friends house who has not so long ago had his gravity heating system "upgraded" to a c-plan.

this was supposidly to stop the boiler banging.

hes, had nothing but trouble since installed, heating settings overiding hot water, etc.

we were just discussing it, and i thought i'd have a look...
i found the guy had fitted the following new parts:
28mm 2port valve on the hw flow... (didnt have 1)
fitted a new clock. (had old time switch)
fitted a cylinder stat... (didnt have 1)

I honestly couldnt work out what he had done, it clearly wasnt a cplan... he'd only used the brown and blue of the valve.

i tested the brown wire it was constantly live reguardless.

he could only select hw or hw&heating... it was a 2channel clock... i thought the whole idea of the valve was to add more control to the system? he couldnt select ch only.

somthing just seemed wrong, so i've just totally rewired the lot for him.... now working fine with indipendent controls of bother hw and heating or both.

the house has a warm air system, it has a very big motor on the back.

they had wired this motor directly to the clock, bypassing the relay for the motor and thus bypassing motors own dedicated supply...and just upped the fuse to a 13a

anyway could any one shot some light onto how this thing was wired, i think it was just a botch, i could be wrong tho... they could be a reason for fitting a valve and having it in the open position all the time i don't know :S :eek:

I the guy who fitted it simply said its ok and refused to come out.

is he right?
mick.

edit: apiologies if u cant understand this message, i aint too good at explaining things


Not having a go at Mick, but just questioning the safety of the alterations, and still do.
 
Well we might have got our wires crossed here...

Are you questioning the actions of mick-uk's friend's tradesperson?

Or the actions of mick-uk in attempting to correct (and improve upon) that work?

If the former, then you're not one of the people who I suggested were giving him an unnecessarily hard time. If the latter, then you are.
 
I'm questioning the upgrade to a Cplan, and not the electrical side of the job, because mikeuk couldn't be expected to an authority on the heaters wet side.

You have a heater with a water jacket, you stick a valve onit and stop the flow :eek: what happens :?: unless you use the valve to control the heating, E>G> turn the heater off.

As far as I know, and I know very little about hot air units, you can't have heating without hot water, so I may be wrong, but at least I asked the question.
 
I'm questioning the upgrade to a Cplan, and not the electrical side of the job, because mikeuk couldn't be expected to an authority on the heaters wet side.
OK.

You have a heater with a water jacket, you stick a valve onit and stop the flow :eek: what happens :?: unless you use the valve to control the heating, E>G> turn the heater off.
Er, just like a MZV does? :confused:

As far as I know, and I know very little about hot air units, you can't have heating without hot water
I know quite a lot about them - many, if not most, heat air without a drop of water being anywhere near them.

so I may be wrong, but at least I asked the question.
Fair play. In that case it must be that you're not in the set of people whom I accused of being mick-uk's on back.
 

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