What have I done? CH stopped working after rad balance

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My wife and 3 young children are thanking me for this...

I had a cold rad when I turned the heating on this season, so tried to balance the system today (I took a while to get around to the job...). I turned off all other rads, ensured this one was bled and fired up the central heating. No joy. So I thought it might be an air lock (it's in an extension, not at the end of the system, but tapped in somewhere along its length) I closed its valves, removed the bleed valve and fitted a hose to a fitting and screwed it in, then opened each valve in turn. Water ran freely from each with no audible glugging of air. I could hear the filler tank refilling in the loft. In the area around the valves the water started to warm.

So I put it back to as it was and opened all the other rads, but now the boiler won't fire up. I put the thermostat up high and the programmer to on. The pump in the airing cupboard is too hot to touch and I could vageuly hear aereated water being passed.

I wondered whether the 3-port valve was cooked. The little lever on it moves freely with no tension between manual and auto. I took off the head and the actual valve spindle seems jammed as it rotates less than 1/8 turn. I assume it could have been this way for some time and I hadn't noticed.

I turned off the CH at the programmer and turned on the water. the children have just had a bath so there should be water to heat, but once again the bioler clicks in but won't fire up.

So, I'm confused. Why will the boiler no longer fire up (I assume a safety cut-out is operating? If the above is all I've done, how did I break it? Was it putting the boiler on with all the rads closed? And why is that rad cold? If the 3-port valve was already stuck open, then the system should surely have worked as it did before my meddling?

A hapless DIY-er with 3 cold little ones...
 
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Hi what make of boiler do have.
It could have an over heat cut out switch.
Gaz
 
It's an old Potterton 16-22. It certainly sounds like it is clicking in and out. I've got its front thermostat set to full on.

An update. I left the system for 2 hours to cool and have now just turned on semi-successfully.

I started with HW; the boiler fired for a while and the airing cupboard pump ran too. After a while the boiler flames clicked off but it sounded like the boiler pump was still going.

I then turned on the CH. At the moment, all rads are fully open, so some are hot, some are lukewarm and even my problem rad is luke warm in its top half. I've now put them back to their previous 'balanced setting'.

The boiler continues to click in and out; so things seem to have settled down.

So what should I conclude? Does it suggests it's clogged and the boiler is getting starved, so overheats and shuts off?

I last had a power flush and fernox treatment 2.5 yrs ago. It's mainly 1980's microbore, so it is not unreasonable to assume it is still clogged somewhat I suppose?
 
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Thanks to some help from other forums and some more reading I'm largely sorted for now.

On the 3-port valve, I read elsewhere that they only rotate by 10 degrees or so, so I wrongly assumed that they should move more.

Also, someone else pointed out to me that simply turning the boiler thermostat up woul dmean the water would heat quicker but not circulate any quicker. I really didn't think it through like that. I just wrongly presumed the boiler pump would also increase its flow rate, which, after a sleep from last night's stressed state, seems daft. I'm even sat here wondering if the boiler even has a pump or whether it is just the airing cupboard pump doing all the circulation...

So, by a little after midnight, all the rads had come up to temperature with the TRVs or valves set to their previous 'balanced' setting. So I guess that I unbalanced the system and overheated the boiler by trying to drive it al through one rad that wasn't working.

I'm still not convinced everything is working as it should so I need to do some slower time investigation:

I will now reduce the boiler thermostat and see if the CH still all gets hot, because I don't think it needs to be up that high. I can then monitor how the boiler responds on just DHW only to see if it clicks on and off, to help see if it is the microbore that is blocked or not.

Great suggestions from you all and you have really helped me.

My thanks

Mark
 

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