What Toilet?

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I’ve installed an external toilet room and laid the flooring. The soil pipe exits vertically through the floor, not flush, and protrudes slightly (see attached image). The centre of the waste pipe is 180mm from the finished wall, and the diameter is 150mm.

I'm looking for advice on the most suitable close-coupled or back-to-wall toilet for this setup. Ideally, I’d like a model that can accommodate or conceal the exposed floor outlet rather than sit in front of it, as the room is tight for space.

Is there a pan design that integrates with or encloses a vertical waste outlet of this size and position, or do I need to opt for a toilet with a rough-in of 180mm+ that sits just in front?

Appreciate any recommendations on pans or connector kits that could work in this situation.
 

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can you build a unit your self - for the toilet and cistern
distance from the back wall to front door ?
i did end 2022 ish - various quotes just without the floor & any fittings £2K /£2.5K

I think our waste - was the same from the floor - already had a pottery type reducer to the standard 4" (110) fitting - cupboard hides it

mid you MRMDF costly the price as before covid - I purchased a sheet before for a project (£36 ish quid, standard 18mm ) I was quoted £130 when i was trying to do this - i think i purchased from travis P in the end around £60-70ish a sheet , which is about what its seems to be now
 

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Last edited:
Thanks for the reply ETAF but my DIY skills and budget are both quite limited..

Was looking at this toilet.

VeeBath PRI002 Base Ceramic White Close Coupled Modern Cloakroom Bathroom WC Toilet Pan & Cistern with Soft Closing Seat, 64 x 38 x 75.5 centimeters
https://amzn.eu/d/4gyPzjf

But it doesn't mention the rough in measurement so not sure it will fit. Then I started wondering whether I could get one closer to wall if it fitted over protruding waste stack I can stretch budget if need be
 
I think the majority would be ok, as it’s close to the wall. Have a look at reputable manufacturers such as Twyford as they publish their measurements online.
 
OP,
As above, the Moda c/c that comes with its own correct cistern looks like it would work. Or a similar WC?
The hub that stubs out of the floor might be the fly in the ointment - how high is it from FFL?
Its typically best to cut such stubs level with the FFL - that will usually give breathing space but if you are a low skilled DIY'er (why shouldn't you be?) it might be too much.
Note: whatever, why not paint the wall behind the WC while the coast is clear?
Where is the water supply?
 
You've left the broken tail of an S trap pan in that clay collar, so connecting something into that will be challenging to say the least. Chop it off at floor level and use a finned extension to give yourself a fighting chance.
 
Hi Justin.. Shame this is just the pan as I'm in the collection area next week.. The broken tail won't come out, it's stuck in solid . The diameter with it in is 90mm and 108mm if it wasn't there, the clay collar has a height of 70mm.

Could I cut the clay collar to floor level, if so what's the best tool to use on this?
 
OP,
Using a 9" angle grinder with a masonry wheel.
Slice the base almost horizontally at floor level - go as far as you can horizontally then do vertical cuts & remove pieces as you go.
As you work you will open up the "clay collar" for access to the back.
As above, stuff the hole with bags or rags.
 
Dynamite bloke - your clay collar looks like cast iron to me . Have you got a (fridge) magnet to check it ?
 
Thanks Nige, you are correct, I checked with a magnet and it appears it's cast iron.. can I still use an angle grinder with diamond wheel?
 
You'll need a steel cutting wheel - and a 4inch grinder is easier , if you have one .
 
Thanks Nige, you are correct, I checked with a magnet and it appears it's cast iron.. can I still use an angle grinder with diamond wheel?
As that soil pipe is CI, breaking the remains of the old pan out will be an easy task if done carefully and then you'll have a good clear pipe to insert the bent pan connector, which will then be ready for your new P trap pan. To neaten the connection up. simply fill in the gap between the new pan connector and the CI collar.
 

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