Which White Gloss or Silk Paint?

[Chris333]

I need to paint some skirting boards but I have heard somewhere that some white gloss paints go yellow quite quickly.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a very good gloss or silk paint that is readily available from DIY stores at a reasonable price, will stay white, and is easy to use?

I will also need to purchase and paint some white doors (but I don't yet know which doors to buy).

Thanks for any help!

 

[gus321123]

i am a painter and from b and q ,,the best paints are the trade ones ,,, poss a bit more pricy tho ,,all paint will yellow with age,,,but i always use crown trade gloss ,,and always undercoat 1st ,,

 

[Chris333]

i am a painter and from b and q ,,the best paints are the trade ones ,,, poss a bit more pricy tho ,,all paint will yellow with age,,,but i always use crown trade gloss ,,and always undercoat 1st ,,

Thanks Gus, I went to B&Q today and bought a trade gloss.

 

[gus321123]

and i hope the undercoat lol

 

[emilybronte]

The only reliably non-yellowing glosses and satinwoods (I presume you mean satin and not silk, which is an emulsion?) are the water based/acrylic ones.

Johnstone's Aqua Gloss or Acrylic Satinwood are the best imo.

 

[gus321123]

if u do use water based paints ,,always undercoat 1st oil based paint

 

[emilybronte]

I will also need to purchase and paint some white doors (but I don't yet know which doors to buy).

Thanks for any help!

Wickes and Howdens often have good value doors and a reasonable choice. Do you want fire doors or not?

 

[emilybronte]

i am a painter and from b and q ,,the best paints are the trade ones ,,, poss a bit more pricy tho ,,all paint will yellow with age,,,but i always use crown trade gloss ,,and always undercoat 1st ,,

No, not all paints will yellow with age, just oil-based white ones.

Trade paints do tend to be superior but for a non-yellowing gloss (as requested by OP), it has to be a non-oil one. Crown trade gloss is oil-based - not sure why you recommended that to OP?

 

[gus321123]

the prob with water based gloss or satins is ,,, the nots in thwood tend to come threw ,,, and unless u go down the road ov proper prep then i personaly think ur safer with the oil gloss

 

[stevewestern]

I use Johnstones Aqua U/C and Gloss and most times apply a coat of Zinsser 123 water based as a bridging coat and to hold back any knots that might bleed through - not had any yet !

Before 123 I always used Zinsser BIN to seal any knots on previously painted trim, and on new trim I always used knotting - never understood why so few seem to use it as it dries in minutes.

As emilybronte says, it is the post 2010 oil based stuff that yellows, with Dulux seeming to be one of the worst.

I would also suggest that a little floetrol is added to the Aqua gloss as it makes it so much easier to use. A splash of water goes some way to help of floetrol isn't available or affordable !

However, neither johnstones, zinsser or floetrol are easily available unless you go to a decent decorators merchants, but then again, most online places will deliver free if you spend £50 or so, and that isn't hard given todays prices !

 

[emilybronte]

the prob with water based gloss or satins is ,,, the nots in thwood tend to come threw ,,, and unless u go down the road ov proper prep then i personaly think ur safer with the oil gloss

I cannot understand fully what you have written, but you seem to be suggesting that oil-based white gloss is the answer when OP specifically highlighted the yellowing problem with o/b and asked for suggestions for a non-yellowing alternative.

 

[opps]

I use Johnstones Aqua U/C and Gloss and most times apply a coat of Zinsser 123 water based as a bridging coat and to hold back any knots that might bleed through - not had any yet !

Before 123 I always used Zinsser BIN to seal any knots on previously painted trim, and on new trim I always used knotting - never understood why so few seem to use it as it dries in minutes.

As emilybronte says, it is the post 2010 oil based stuff that yellows, with Dulux seeming to be one of the worst.

I would also suggest that a little floetrol is added to the Aqua gloss as it makes it so much easier to use. A splash of water goes some way to help of floetrol isn't available or affordable !

However, neither johnstones, zinsser or floetrol are easily available unless you go to a decent decorators merchants, but then again, most online places will deliver free if you spend £50 or so, and that isn't hard given todays prices !

In theory you could use hair conditioner if you didn't have any floetrol, both are propylene glycol based, never tried it myself...

Re BIN and knots, both BIN and knotting solution are shellac based. BTW not sure if you realised- ignore the crap on the tin about cleaning brushes in meths, just soak them in household ammonia, the alkali breaks down the paint and after a day or so the ammonia evaporates leaving you with water that you can just pour down the sink. It will clean BIN brushes that have gone hard(ish) as well.

 

[opps]

the prob with water based gloss or satins is ,,, the nots in thwood tend to come threw ,,, and unless u go down the road ov proper prep then i personaly think ur safer with the oil gloss

I cannot understand fully what you have written, but you seem to be suggesting that oil-based white gloss is the answer when OP specifically highlighted the yellowing problem with o/b and asked for suggestions for a non-yellowing alternative.

I think that Gus was trying to highlight the potential issues of using waterbased finishes, of which swelling is my biggest complaint, along with inferior durability and flow.

You are correct that oil based paints will yellow but it is worth bearing in mind that it will only yellow as a result of a lack of UV light. In a large airy room the effect might be negligible but in a dark hallway it will be very noticeable.

There are other options such as BIN but it is difficult to maintain a wet edge/decent smooth finish (pure alcohol will help).

I tend to recommend off-white oilbased finishes, yellowing will be less obvious. Just my own personal preference.

 

[stevewestern]

In theory you could use hair conditioner if you didn't have any floetrol, both are propylene glycol based, never tried it myself...

Re BIN and knots, both BIN and knotting solution are shellac based. BTW not sure if you realised- ignore the crap on the tin about cleaning brushes in meths, just soak them in household ammonia, the alkali breaks down the paint and after a day or so the ammonia evaporates leaving you with water that you can just pour down the sink. It will clean BIN brushes that have gone hard(ish) as well.

Yeah, I have heard that but like you not tried it - I have also not tried using floetrol on what little hair I have..

As for cleaning brushes - I am one of those people who rarely has what he needs with him so have managed to accumulate a collection of bottles of meths so now keep some alongside my BIN to clean out brushes. Knotting I apply with a rag.
Not heard about ammonia but as I hate the smell I'll keep going with the meths - it doubles up in case I get thirsty too !!

 

[opps]

In theory you could use hair conditioner if you didn't have any floetrol, both are propylene glycol based, never tried it myself...

Re BIN and knots, both BIN and knotting solution are shellac based. BTW not sure if you realised- ignore the crap on the tin about cleaning brushes in meths, just soak them in household ammonia, the alkali breaks down the paint and after a day or so the ammonia evaporates leaving you with water that you can just pour down the sink. It will clean BIN brushes that have gone hard(ish) as well.

Yeah, I have heard that but like you not tried it - I have also not tried using floetrol on what little hair I have..

As for cleaning brushes - I am one of those people who rarely has what he needs with him so have managed to accumulate a collection of bottles of meths so now keep some alongside my BIN to clean out brushes. Knotting I apply with a rag.
Not heard about ammonia but as I hate the smell I'll keep going with the meths - it doubles up in case I get thirsty too !!

there is another waterbased product. I did buy some but haven't tried it yet, it's cheaper and looks like prop glyc with blue food dye...

will post the name once I can remember. They seems to do several variants.

Given the cost of owatrol these days I am tempted to make my own, I believe it is just linseed oil and turps.