Where is the white gloss that doesn't yellow?

  • Thread starter attractivebrunette
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attractivebrunette

There is another thread on this topic but it's 4 years old.

My house is very dark inside and gets hardly any natural light. I've been told this is something that causes white gloss paint to 'yellow'.

However I can't re-paint all my doors and frames once a year (that's how long it's taken for my pure brilliant white gloss dulux trade paint to turn yellow).

I've heard there are some white gloss paints that dont' yellow, one being Dulux Trade Aquatech. But some people say it's a bitch to get on and off and dries too quickly and simply isn't as good as normal oil based gloss paints.

Can anyone tell me what the deal is? I want some tough, hard-wearing trade brilliant white gloss that won't yellow. Is Aquatech any good? Any others?
 
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The reason oil-based paint yellows is due to the linseed oil oxidising - same way a cricket bat gets darker with age ...
Aquatech is water-based , it wont yellow but its c*** as far as application & durability goes.. :evil:
Stick to oil-based but why not paint the woodwork a slightly off-white eggshell to start with?
 
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As far as I can see all oil based white yellows after time, I agree with the other man water based is the only answer but its not as hard wearing and I think its Harder to put on as it dries very quick :eek:
 
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We used (about 9years ago) B&Q Low Odour white gloss which did not yellow , a pal enquired at B&Q for the same paint & was told it is now called B&Q magic gloss or similar.
JonB
 
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It is true that all oil based paint will yellow due to the ultraviolet light- not a problem for water (edit) based paint.

Over the last couple of years I have noticed that the Dulux Trade gloss has been yellowing faster than I would expect. The same does not seem to be true for the DT oil based eggshell. No idea why though- 95% of my jobs are eggshell so I am being very anecdotal

I too would recommend eggshell (off white- eg natural cotton)- faster (touch) drying, much nicer to work with as well, less scrubbable though
 
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Oil based paints are susceptible to a certain level of ‘yellowing’, so using a water-based system is the best way to ensure paintwork stays looking freshly painted for longer.

Dulux Trade Aquatech is no longer available, however water-based Ecosure Gloss and Undercoat have been launched which are easy to apply and will achieve the hardwearing and professional looking finish normally associated with solvent-based products. Ecosure products are also a more environmentally friendly choice compared to the solvent-based equivalent, with lower VOC content and less CO2 emitted during the manufacturing process.

To get the best from the Ecosure Gloss system:
* Use a synthetic brush
* Lightly dampen both the brush and the surface before application to increase the flow out
* Apply two coats of gloss for a glossier finish

See here for more information - http://www.icipaints.co.uk/products/ecosure/ecosure_gloss_undercoat.jsp

For an eggshell finish, I recommend Dulux Trade Diamond Eggshell or Ecosure Quick Drying Eggshell. Both paints are water-based and offer exceptional durability credentials.

Diamond Eggshell - http://www.icipaints.co.uk/products/info/dulux_trade_diamond_eggshell.jsp
Ecosure QD Eggshell - http://www.icipaints.co.uk/products/ecosure/ecosure_quick_drying_eggshell.jsp

Nicolas Guichard, Senior Brand Manager Dulux Trade
 
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Hello Opps,

Thanks for pointing me towards the thread about VOC compliant paints. In fact, this is one that I had spotted already and posted a reply on 15th December. If you have further questions on this subject though, post again and I’d be happy to add another comment.

Thanks again!

Nicolas Guichard, Senior Brand Manager Dulux Trade
 
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Sorry Nicolas, I missed your post- thanks for it.

I notice that your link explains that the new (oil-based) paints will yellow faster than previously. I appreciate that you (Dulux) were forced to make changes to the paints but I have never understood why UV inhibitors are not included in the paint or as a optional top coating in the first place.
 
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If you come over to take a look in the Bib n Braces forum you'll see that we're not impressed by water-based gloss/eggshell, it doesnt perform anywhere near as good as oil/solvent-based products :(
As for yellowing, Im having no end of customers calling me back to explain why their recently (VOC2010)painted woodwork is yellowing so quickly, sometimes noticable within 6-8 weeks!
Frankly this VOC stuff is causing us problems (all brands , this isnt a Dulux only issue)finacially as we're blamed for supplying the paint & some clients are requesting re-painting !
I tend to disagree about UV light , Its lack of sunlight that accelerates the yellowing, an example; On a recent job I had to paint four kitchen doors, I returned for more work there last week, one door had a hook on it where the owner had hung a (DRY) apron , when this was removed an exact yellow 'shadow' of the apron was distinctly visible ,the rest of the door was as white as could be expected when exposed to light. Weve all seen this effect inside cupboard doors ..
b] lwdcourt's[/b] mention of adding blue is a valid one, thats the difference between 'white' & 'Brilliant White', just look at the blue tint to washing powders, they use the same 'method'
 
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Hi, whilst not wanting to dismiss your suggestion out of hand I don't see how blue paint would work.

To begin with the yellowing is because of the absence of a particular part of the UV spectrum.

Exterior paint should not yellow unless it is deprived of the UV light.

AFAIK it is not the driers that result in yellowing but the medium itself, particularly things like linseed oil. This has been the case for hundreds of years, just look at old p(artist) aintings.

Brilliant white already has a small amount of blue added, without the blue it is plain old BS White (00E55).

Additionally blue paint (yellows/darkens)- if I paint a cupboard, the internal colour will end up darker than the exterior...

Sorry- you might be correct but I can't see how or why.
 
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No, youre right opps, I didnt mean it stopped yellowing, I just meant it appeared 'more white' at first application. As you say all shades of paint will yellow after time (unless sun-bleached)
 
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If you come over to take a look in the Bib n Braces forum you'll see that we're not impressed by water-based gloss/eggshell, it doesnt perform anywhere near as good as oil/solvent-based products :(
As for yellowing, Im having no end of customers calling me back to explain why their recently (VOC2010)painted woodwork is yellowing so quickly, sometimes noticable within 6-8 weeks!
Frankly this VOC stuff is causing us problems (all brands , this isnt a Dulux only issue)finacially as we're blamed for supplying the paint & some clients are requesting re-painting !
I tend to disagree about UV light , Its lack of sunlight that accelerates the yellowing, an example; On a recent job I had to paint four kitchen doors, I returned for more work there last week, one door had a hook on it where the owner had hung a (DRY) apron , when this was removed an exact yellow 'shadow' of the apron was distinctly visible ,the rest of the door was as white as could be expected when exposed to light. Weve all seen this effect inside cupboard doors ..
b] lwdcourt's[/b] mention of adding blue is a valid one, thats the difference between 'white' & 'Brilliant White', just look at the blue tint to washing powders, they use the same 'method'

opps- you beat me to it.....

Haven't you noticed that post VOC2010 paints in the tin even yellow, eg if you have a tin that is half full the bit clinging to the upper sides or lid are yellowed in weeks.

I now recommend customers to go for off whites rather than white so that the yellowing is less obvious.

The maths behind VOC reduction don't add up- surfaces will be painted more often- I use more driers, Owatrol and white spirit than before and I am using more Acid Cat than previously.

Daft....
 
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Hi LJW

My response was to the other (conspiracy :?: ) fellow not you- out of sync- story of my life...
 

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