which wireless thermostat?

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I am buying a wireless thermostat soon for my Baxi combi boiler 28 HE A.

Is there anything that is reccomended?

I only live in a 2 bed terraced

Are they easy to wire in DIY or do i need a qualified central heating boiler engineer?

Cheers
 
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I have found the mid range wireless on/off thermostats use a mark/space ratio to stop the hysteresis, which makes a modulating gas boiler less efficient, the cheap range don't have a fail safe, so anything which disrupts the wireless link can cause over heating, so for wireless your looking at the top of the range. With wired you can use cheap, wireless need good quality.

As far as I am aware that boiler is not opentherm, if it is then opentherm is way to go, but if not then the TRV (Thermostatic radiator valve) is the main control, the wall thermostat is only there to turn off the boiler on warm days, this is why the thermostat is put in a room kept cool on ground floor, with no outside doors, however in practice the room rarely exists.

So although I would not normally say Hive, it is likely Hive will work well in your case, the way Hive works is the TRV head sends a demand for heat to the wall thermostat, so the wall thermostat is little more than a hub collecting information and relaying it to boiler. But £50 each for the TRV head, and another £100 for wall thermostat it gets expensive, so big question does it really need to be wireless?

The Flomasta 22199SX wired programmable thermostat is around £27.50, and the eQ-3 programmable TRV heads start at around £10 each, it takes a little more setting up, but does the same job. Big question is it worth paying 4 times the price to go wireless?
 
Hi, thanks for input. I don't think i want to spend loads on one nd i'm not fussed to have it controlled via my smart phone.

I've actually bought a Salus RT310RF wireless, and having read your message i'm hoping it will be ok. There are many good reviews so hopefully it will.

I've another question: Do i need to purchase cable separately to wire the receiver into the boiler or does it usually come with cable? If i need to purchase, what type of cable do i need?
 
One question you need an answer to is this :-

What happens if the receiver has received a "boiler ON" command from the thermostat, has switched the boiler ON and has then lost communication with the thermostat and thus cannot receive any "boiler OFF" commands. ?

Does the receiver time out some time after the last "boiler ON" command and thus switch the boiler OFF or does the boiler continue to burn until communication is restored and a "boiler OFF" command can be sent ?
 
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there is a manual or auto switch on the receiver, and if i move it to manual then it effectively shuts off the thermostat in the room. when switched to 'auto', this is when the room thermostat is controlling the boiler
 
In my own house I used a hard wired, when the battery went flat it stopped working, mother house had a Honeywell Y6630D which is wireless but not programmable, it was a really good thermostat, OK not best suited for a condensating boiler, as it used a mark/space system to stop over shooting, but it had a fail safe built in, not signal and after 30 minutes it switched off, i.e failed safe, however once the programmer turned off, then no central heating.

So I thought better to use a programmable thermostat, so instead of switching off, it turned the temperature down, so I got a Horstmann HRFS-1 wireless thermostat which reading the spec seemed to be the bees knees, it was actually cheaper than the Honeywell T6630D and I thought I was a very good son selecting this thermostat.

That was until I came to visit and found the room at 35°C, for what every reason it had lost the link, and it seemed it did not retry, turn it to 40°C and back to 20°C and it worked again, it did this a few times, and I returned to the Honeywell Y6630D as it was far more reliable.

I then fitted Energenie MiHome TRV heads which were programmable and ensured even if the wall thermostat did stick on, the set temperature would not be exceeded.

I will not claim they were to start with A1, the TRV was on the return, and there was a problem that the radiator got really hot before the heat reached the TRV, and I had to adjust the lock shield valve to stop the over shoot, however once set they worked well, and as my mothers health deteriorated we moved into and got a second pair.

As said the Honeywell Y6630D was not the best for a modulating condensing boiler as it used a mark/space system to stop over shoot, but it worked well, even if it did result in using over the amount of gas it should have done.

They were claimed to work with Nest, so on my mothers death we took the TRV heads to out new house and bought Nest Gen 3 to work with them, however it seems Nest withdrew support, so using the Smart Phone app they did change temperature with Nest, but using the dial, schedule, or geofencing they failed to follow. So had to be set simply to same schedule as Nest Gen 3.

So the bluetooth eQ-3 TRV heads bought for upstairs rooms worked just as well as the energenie but at ¼ of the cost, may be not a good comparison since now using an oil fired boiler, so not modulating, however my advice is based on my errors.

Point is working A1 as far as control is concerned and working in an economic way is not the same, so either expensive wireless thermostat or any old cheap wired programmable thermostat. So to go wireless your likely looking at 6 times the price of doing the same thing hard wired.

And all the wall thermostat does is turn off the boiler when warm weather arrives, it does not control the room temperature the TRV does that.

Learn form my error.
 

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