Whirlpool dishwasher GU940SCGB2 won't drain

[cv]

Hi,

I'm having trouble with a whirlpool dishwasher Model GU940SCGB2. It will drain part way, then stop. If I go to the Stop/Drain button, sometimes it runs for about 20 seconds, then stops, other times it won't run at all. Eventually it simply shuts off with a great deal of water left in the machine.

I read through the posts for several years back looking for similar problems. I noted in a post from April 06 that a different Whirlpool model had a check valve that might be clogged. Would that apply to this model and if so, where would I find it. Could you suggest other possible solutions?

A local appliance repair immediately told me I'd need to replace the pump/motor assembly before even looking at it. That seems a bit extreme to me. Am I simply nieve?

Thanks in advance.

 

[handyman1962]

Sounds like a good place to start for a no drain problem as long as you hear the motor running trying to get the dishwasher to drain. The check valve is screwed into the pump base underneath the dishwasher. Just unscrew it and look for blockages there and along the drain line.

 

[cv]

Hi Handyman,

Thanks for the reply; you're just the person I was hoping to hear from.

Since I made the first posting, I located and removed the Check Valve. It was clear. I checked the drain pipe (clear) and also dismantled the sprayer arm looking for obstructions keeping the water from draining up top and found none though I couldn't get past too far past the cover plate. The black plastic plate inside that seems to be tied to the motor shaft, spins freely. On the chance that there might be a drain screen that I couldn't see, I put a couple cups of water in, then disconnected the drain hose. The water freely ran out. Spinning the plate (and I assume the impeller) didn't seem to cause any change in the rate of drain if that makes any difference.

I re-assembled everything and tried it again with the lower kick plates off. It ran for a very short wash cycle, then shut off. I pressed cancel/drain and it ran about 20 seconds then shut off with most of the water left in the machine.

Let me give you a few other observations that might or might not mean something to you. When the unit shuts down, there is a mild "electrical" smell in the air like something is getting hot. I touched the motor after one of these times and the motor was not hot that I could tell.

I've also noticed that when it starts there is a soft click in the control panel in the door (also opened and checked for any obvious problems, found none). and there is a later click a short time after it stops. I assume these are solenoids or switches of some sort. Today I noticed that there is a second, still later click that comes from the motor/pump assembly area after it stops. After the second later click, the pump will run again, although still for a short time.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

CV

 

[cv]

Hi Handyman,

Thanks for the reply; you're just the person I was hoping to hear from.

Since I made the first posting, I located and removed the Check Valve. It was clear. I checked the drain pipe (clear) and also dismantled the sprayer arm looking for obstructions keeping the water from draining up top and found none though I couldn't get past too far past the cover plate. The black plastic plate inside that seems to be tied to the motor shaft, spins freely. On the chance that there might be a drain screen that I couldn't see, I put a couple cups of water in, then disconnected the drain hose. The water freely ran out. Spinning the plate (and I assume the impeller) didn't seem to cause any change in the rate of drain if that makes any difference.

I re-assembled everything and tried it again with the lower kick plates off. It ran for a very short wash cycle, then shut off. I pressed cancel/drain and it ran about 20 seconds then shut off with most of the water left in the machine.

Let me give you a few other observations that might or might not mean something to you. When the unit shuts down, there is a mild "electrical" smell in the air like something is getting hot. I touched the motor after one of these times and the motor was not hot that I could tell.

I've also noticed that when it starts there is a soft click in the control panel in the door (also opened and checked for any obvious problems, found none). and there is a later click a short time after it stops. I assume these are solenoids or switches of some sort. Today I noticed that there is a second, still later click that comes from the motor/pump assembly area after it stops. After the second later click, the pump will run again, although still for a short time.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

CV

 

[handyman1962]

This is certainly sounding more and more like a motor going sour. It it runs and functions on wash and drain ie does what its supposed for a few minutes then quits I have to assume a bad motor. Sometimes something can get caught in the impeller stopping the motor from turning but you have claimed it is turning freely but just not for a long period of time so there are no obstructions. If you put the dishwasher in wash or drain mode and it kicks off and then a few minutes later you can restart it only to kick off again it sounds like the motor heating up and then shuting down on its overload. In other words, its motor time unfortunatly. You can be sure of this by checking the motor for voltage when it quits. If there is voltage to the motor and no go, my guess is new motor needed.

 

[cv]

Thanks for the info. I'll proceed with that in mind and post my results when I get this all sorted out.

 

[handyman1962]

Good luck with the repair!

 

[cv]

Hi All,

Here's the latest update.

I went ahead and had a repairman come and check out the unit. He checked for current to the motor, saw it and pronounced it a bad motor. I went ahead and had him order a new motor pump assembly as he suggested which he installed earlier today. When he went to run the dishwasher, the same problem occurred.

He re-checked the electrical connections with a meter and this time noticed that it didn't always have electric coming to the motor and seemed to feel that the motor was not getting enough electricity which would cause it to heat up and shut down.

We are now ordering a new contoller unit. My question now is since the motor wasn't the real issue to begin with, do I need to replace it as well or can I use the original motor pump assembly and simply replace the controller.

The repairman is a bit iffy on this point. He says that the motor would probably have sustained damage due to the lack of power and it might run for a while or it might not. I'll have well over $350.00 into the repairs if I use both parts and I'm concerned that it is getting awfully close to the point where it would make more sense to replace it than repair it.

Thanks in advance for any advice you can pass on!

 

[handyman1962]

As long as the old motor was getting power and running, I would not replace that yet. You may have a bad control that is not feeding power to the motor all the time. There is also a thermal cut off on this dishwasher but if that blows you would get a "dead" dishwasher. The other thing you might want to check are the door switches. These can pull fits and interrupt power to the motor as well.