Wilo Gold RS60 - 15-60, what does it mean?

[Schmill]

I have a Wilo RS60 which is not working properly.
In the manual it says it is 130mm between ports and 1 1/2" BSPM fittings.
Pumps I see for sale say things like 25-60 and from what I've read this is to do with the fittings and the head, bit I don't follow.
Do I need a 1 1/2" (37.5mm) fitting, so it's this a 37.5-60?

This doesn't seem to make sense.
Looking at my pump it actually seems like it's only the switch that is damaged, but I don't know if you can get just the "electrics" part?

 

[75pete]

Google your Wilo gold rs60, you will find information regarding

 

[Exedon]

Wish you luck trying to get a replacement switch.
We would just stick a new pump in
Our going to pump is dab evosta 3 you would need a 60/130
6mt head pump (can be set lower) 130 wide

 

[Schmill]

Google your Wilo gold rs60, you will find information regarding

I did, and I didn't hence posting here.

 

[Schmill]

Wish you luck trying to get a replacement switch.
We would just stick a new pump in
Our going to pump is dab evosta 3 you wound need a 60/130
6mt head pump (can be set lower) 130 wide

Cheers, those pumps seem to be a reasonable replacement cost of around £80-90
I've got isolator valves each side of the pump, so I'm assuming this would be pretty much a "drop in replacement", except for the multiple settings on the new pump - I'll have to have a read on how to set those!

 

[Exedon]

Yes will fit straight in ask for advice on here if you need re settings.
The evosta is a good pump we fit many, just for reference Dab is a total owned by Grundfos but more cost effective.

 

[Schmill]

Yes will fit straight in ask for advice on here if you need re settings.
The evosta is a good pump we fit many, just for reference Dab is a total owned by Grundfos but more cost effective.

That's good to know about evosta, at least good parentage!
Any info on how to setup the pump would be great, I've looked at the graphs & settings, but still not sure what I should pick. For my Wilo Gold RS60 I've generally used setting 1 in the summer, and 2 in the winter (when the central heating circuit is opened up, compared to the summer when only the hot water and towel radiator are running).
I believe the new self-adjusting pumps should be more efficient and possibly prevent me needing to manually switch it between summer and winter uses?

 

[Agile]

You might believe that but I suspect your switching would be more energy saving.

 

[Schmill]

You might believe that but I suspect your switching would be more energy saving.

Really? That doesn't sound... wonderful
So should I be looking at a basic switchable pump rather than a "smart" one?
Seems a lot has changed in the last 13 years since I fitted the RS60!

 

[Johntheo5]

Wish you luck trying to get a replacement switch.
We would just stick a new pump in
Our going to pump is dab evosta 3 you would need a 60/130
6mt head pump (can be set lower) 130 wide

If the pump isolating valves are "gate" type with a spindle then no problem as you can tighten the gland nuts, the other, a ball type valve with no spindle can leak when shut so be prepared for a drain down and new valves if this type installed.


A excellent pump choice IMO, it also displays the head, flow & power, very useful in setting up and trouble shooting.
There are several operating modes and settings, if you can give a rough idea of rad numbers and total output and if TRVs installed or not then this will give a fair indication of whats needd, I have a 6M Wilo Yonos Pico and am very familiar with setting up any of these pumps which I have done for several relations/neighbours.

Have you a sealed or open vented system?

 

[Schmill]

Yup, those look like very familiar graphs

Open vented system, 2x two-port motorised valves, one for central heating, one for hot water cylinder, (and a bathroom towel rail that tees off before either valve so is on no matter which circuit is "active", but has the balancing valve closed right down so it only takes a tiny bit of the flow).
8 rads (7 with TRV, one without) + the aforementioned towel rail.
The rad without a TRV is the one in the hall which is where the house thermostat is located.

Hopefully thats enough info, but if you need any more please let me know.

Pump valves are the quarter-turn ball valves, so when I come to change the pump I'll be sure to have some towels on standby! - depending on the leakage if I have everything ready maybe I can close them as best as possible, then get one pump out and the other in before things get too damp

 

[Johntheo5]

Fairly similar to my OV system, I run with a 4.6M PP (proportional pressure) setting which gives me the required ~ 3.5M & ~15LPM with all TRVs fully calling.
Suggest using CP2 (constant pressure) at 3.0M with all TRVs calling, if this is OK then suggest PP3, you might get away with PP2 but too weak IMO, anyway you have plenty of info from that pump. The Wilo is more versatile in that you can incrementally change the head in 0.1M steps on both CP & PP modes to give almost any desired flow but the DAB should do the job fine.

The problem with those ball valves is that they can leak out around the "spindle" O ring but you wont know this until you shut/reopen, might be no harm to purchase a pair of isolation valves with the pump, you can arrange to return them if not required, also use rubber gaskets, they may come supplied with the pump, they did with mine.

 

[Schmill]

Is this the Wilo pump you mentioned as an alternative to the Evosta?
Although a bit more expensive it does have the advantage that I could collect it locally (if it's the correct one?)

Wilo Yonos PICO 25/1-6-130 Glandless Circulating Pump 230V - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Easy installation and set-up, accessible through 'Green Button Technology'. High energy performance is achieved through the proven EC motor technology and precise setting in 0.1m steps. Longer de-blocking routine can be activated manually. Error code indication for...

www.screwfix.com

 

[Johntheo5]

That's it, mine, 4 years old, only displays the power in watts but these newer models also display the flowrate as well, I think.

 

[Schmill]

It looks like the Wilo is more adjustable (or at least more easily adjustable than the Evosta) but just rotating the wheel rather than poking at a button multiple times. I guess I'd set it to the 'radiator' side of things, but how do I know what value to set it to, or with 9 radiators do I just stick it on the "middle house" setting?