Wilo Gold RS60 - 15-60, what does it mean?

[Johntheo5]

I would suggest setting it up by turning it to the UFH side, CP setting, it will keep flashing the selected head M for a few seconds after you stop moving it and display the watts (and probably the actual head) I would suggest setting it to 3.5M initially, you can leave it like this if you like to see if its adequate to heat all your rads, if not adjust it up a little, say to 3.8M when happy with the final setting. when you do set it up initially at say 3.5M, immediately turn it to the "rads" and adjust it until the watts are the same as they were at CP 3.5M or whatever you selected, make a note of that PP setting, it might be 4.6M or so, for future reference, you can then switch back to CP mode or leave it on PP mode, its your choice.
You also have the 3 fixed speed traditional settings in the middle, I, II, & III, I=~ 2M, II=~4M and 3=~6M, setting II will/should satisfy most installations of your size, but I like to see the watts falling in PP mode as the TRVs throttle down etc. Remember, in CP & PP modes you can set it anywhere you like incrimentally, in 0.1M steps.
Forgot, that model now displays the flow as well so, if you do purchase it, post your values.

 

[Schmill]

I would suggest setting it up by turning it to the UFH side, CP setting, it will keep flashing the selected head M for a few seconds after you stop moving it and display the watts (and probably the actual head) I would suggest setting it to 3.5M initially, you can leave it like this if you like to see if its adequate to heat all your rads, if not adjust it up a little, say to 3.8M when happy with the final setting. when you do set it up initially at say 3.5M, immediately turn it to the "rads" and adjust it until the watts are the same as they were at CP 3.5M or whatever you selected, make a note of that PP setting, it might be 4.6M or so, for future reference, you can then switch back to CP mode or leave it on PP mode, its your choice.
You also have the 3 fixed speed traditional settings in the middle, I, II, & III, I=~ 2M, II=~4M and 3=~6M, setting II will/should satisfy most installations of your size, but I like to see the watts falling in PP mode as the TRVs throttle down etc. Remember, in CP & PP modes you can set it anywhere you like incrimentally, in 0.1M steps.
Forgot, that model now displays the flow as well so, if you do purchase it, post your values.

Sounds good thanks, yes we had issues previously with the fixed speed pump that when we set the power to be enough to run the water through all rads with TRVs open and the hot water cylinder also wanting heat, it meant that then when there was no heating demand at all and only the hot water cylinder needed heat the system became quite noisy - presumably because the water was then rushing around at a rate of knots!

 

[Johntheo5]

You won't go far wrong if you go for the Wilo because of its infinite settings, I came across the numbers for my set up, my CP setting is 3.6M, my PP setting is 4.7M (for the past 4 years) and both this, PP4.7M, CP3.6M & fixed speed II, give 22W just now, (HW off) with some rads TRVs throttled down. You will be able to read off the flowrates on yours, I've often seen my power down to 16W on this PP mode.

 

[Schmill]

That's great thanks, I ordered the Wilo earlier today from Screwfix, should be able to collect tomorrow and maybe fit Friday or weekend

 

[Johntheo5]

Any update on your new pump, you might, for interest, if you don't mind, post mode/setting /head/flow/power.

 

[Schmill]

Any update on your new pump, you might, for interest, if you don't mind, post mode/setting /head/flow/power.

Hi, sorry for the delay, I fitted the pump at the weekend, but did not have time to do the full setup on the system, so have stuck it on C2 for now (just the fixed speed mode). I believe it is showing around 26W and between 0.7 and 0.8 m3/hr with just the heating running (probably most TRV are open at the moment).
Will update more once I've had a chance to fiddle.

I've liked the "air purge" option on the pump, although it would be useful if it just "did it" - it seems that it presents the E11 dry-run error code, and then you have to press the button, so the "automatic air purge" is effectively automatic, but only once you manually tell it to do so.