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Hi, does anyone know the best place to get a cheap garage window 1200 x 1080 ?
Window for garage
- Thread starter Sparky1970
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Got a couple of double glazed windows for my workshop cheaply from a local reclaimed yard. Alternative is to knock some up yourself, if it's for a garage it could be constructed simply with squared timbers and no mouldings to bother with and screwed together for ease.
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thank you for your reply, could you guide me through making and fitting the window and measuring up the glass etc ? 
Yes I'll give some hints, but first do you intend this window to open or is it just for ventilation ?
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Dont really need an opener for this window.
Hi Sparky,
I work for a window company, we have got a miss measure window that is 1195 wide by 1010 high, the size will allow a better fit, or you can have frame extenders on it. it is in rosewood, with no openers. If this insnt any good try out DIY website, cheap windows and desent quality, also there is loads of info on how to fit double glazed windows
Hope this help
I work for a window company, we have got a miss measure window that is 1195 wide by 1010 high, the size will allow a better fit, or you can have frame extenders on it. it is in rosewood, with no openers. If this insnt any good try out DIY website, cheap windows and desent quality, also there is loads of info on how to fit double glazed windows
Hope this help
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measured more accuratly today its 1090 x 1230mm, do you have this size?
Sorry I haven't got back sooner ,been a bit busy.
To make a window of your own will of course depend upon you skill with wood but there are different options.
You don't say what the construction the garage wall is but for this instance I'll assume brickwork. The only real bearing on this is the thickness and thus thickness of the window frame. I'll assume a window thickness of around 3" or 75mm which should cover most cases.
Use 3x2 (75x50mm) planed all round which will be slightly smaller when planed up .It will finish at 2 3/4" x1 3/4" or 69mmx 44mm or thereabouts, buy sufficent to avoid any discrepancies. Idealy the timber should be rebated with a rebate of around 12mm x 22mm which is sufficient for single glazing and tenoned together.A cill section out of a single piece of timber is also better .Decent woodyards carry cill sections and will machine rebates at a smallish extra cost.
As said tenoning together is the better option but simple butt joints and screws are ok. For a window of 1230mm I would put in a mullion, a vertical member in the centre to break up. For this you would need a wider section of timber to accomadate having a rebate on both sides
Ensure all the timbers are cut to the same lenght i.e. all uprights the same and both head and cill the same, measure to the shoulders. For example with a head thickness of 44mm then the outside shoulder lenght of the upright member would be 32mm from the overall height at the top joint. With all joints cut and dry fitted then put the frame together and glue and cramp and screw.Before screwing or wedging check for squareness by measuring diagonally, the distance should be identical on both diagonals.
An easier method is to just use square timbers.
Make up a frame again out of 3x2 par and form the rebates with 2x1 screwed onto the inside faces. By making the height of this frame 1090 - 44mm you can then screw onto the bottom of the frame a piece of 150x50mm to form a cill, although where it projects it should be planed down to form a sloping surface to shed water.
As to the glass measure it with a gap of 3mm all around i.e smaller than the rebated opening. If you have any doubts or the frame is out of square then cut templates out of hardboard and take these to the glass supplier.
Bed the glass in either putty or mastic which makes it a bit more secure and face up with a putty fillet although I did once replace a glass pane with two pack wood filler as it had been removed by ner do wells to gain access to a vets.
Hope this is of some help.
To make a window of your own will of course depend upon you skill with wood but there are different options.
You don't say what the construction the garage wall is but for this instance I'll assume brickwork. The only real bearing on this is the thickness and thus thickness of the window frame. I'll assume a window thickness of around 3" or 75mm which should cover most cases.
Use 3x2 (75x50mm) planed all round which will be slightly smaller when planed up .It will finish at 2 3/4" x1 3/4" or 69mmx 44mm or thereabouts, buy sufficent to avoid any discrepancies. Idealy the timber should be rebated with a rebate of around 12mm x 22mm which is sufficient for single glazing and tenoned together.A cill section out of a single piece of timber is also better .Decent woodyards carry cill sections and will machine rebates at a smallish extra cost.
As said tenoning together is the better option but simple butt joints and screws are ok. For a window of 1230mm I would put in a mullion, a vertical member in the centre to break up. For this you would need a wider section of timber to accomadate having a rebate on both sides
Ensure all the timbers are cut to the same lenght i.e. all uprights the same and both head and cill the same, measure to the shoulders. For example with a head thickness of 44mm then the outside shoulder lenght of the upright member would be 32mm from the overall height at the top joint. With all joints cut and dry fitted then put the frame together and glue and cramp and screw.Before screwing or wedging check for squareness by measuring diagonally, the distance should be identical on both diagonals.
An easier method is to just use square timbers.
Make up a frame again out of 3x2 par and form the rebates with 2x1 screwed onto the inside faces. By making the height of this frame 1090 - 44mm you can then screw onto the bottom of the frame a piece of 150x50mm to form a cill, although where it projects it should be planed down to form a sloping surface to shed water.
As to the glass measure it with a gap of 3mm all around i.e smaller than the rebated opening. If you have any doubts or the frame is out of square then cut templates out of hardboard and take these to the glass supplier.
Bed the glass in either putty or mastic which makes it a bit more secure and face up with a putty fillet although I did once replace a glass pane with two pack wood filler as it had been removed by ner do wells to gain access to a vets.
Hope this is of some help.
A
Alarm
Reclaim yard, one near me must have 100`s of DG units for next to nothing!
Just use your friend Google!
Just use your friend Google!
Doing my garage up at the moment so will need to make a couple of windows so good post.
Might make some double garage doors if you have any tips.
Might make some double garage doors if you have any tips.
Might make some double garage doors if you have any tips.
Thanks , I've been away for a few days and I'll be away again this weekend too so I'm a little short of time at the moment but I'll post something next week if that's any good. Funnily enough I've got to make some garage doors for my own house at some point so I'll let you see what I have in mind.
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