Windows - meranti or Accoya or something else

[DC1977]

Hi all

Had a lot of help on the forums here which has been great, got another query....

The wife would like us to replace the 10 yr old uPVC casement windows on the house we are doing up....

Planning on staying there for a long time, I know timber windows require more maintenance, but want to minimise this as much as possible if we can afford it.

Ive had a few quotes, one is Meranti wood (a mid range hardwood?) and others are in Accoya which is much more expensive. Also had quotes for engineered softwood pine (Redwood) Is the Accoya worth it - one supplier said that Accoya could last 60 years or more but in their words do we need it to last that long? I probably wont be around then! Is Meranti a good alternative? Or the engineered redwood? Although 60 years might not be needed I would want them to last a significant number of years without needing to get them painted every 2 years. They are on the front of our house which gets a lot of sun in the mornings...

Also some companies quotes are for manufacture in a factory, and include factory spray of 4 coats of microporous paint. Another quote (more expensive) was for hand made and hand painted 2 coats after priming, of Jotan Dekker Ultimate paint (which gets good reviews). Would the factory coatings mean more time between getting repainted?

Seen the timber effect uPVC (residence 9) windows but the missus has decided these are a no go...

Any advice much appreciated!

 

[Notch7]

There are 2 key things to consider:

1 length of time between re decoration cycles
2 anticipated lifespan.

The detailing of the joinery is key, look for:

1) A V groove at all external joints, sash and frame
2) a 3mm radius on all external edges
3) drained and vented rebates for glazing
4) detailing of glazing bead

On another note, virtually all factory finishing of joinery is done with water based paints. Nothing wrong with that, but there is one main problem: winter curing. The paint doesn't cure at all below 12 degrees C and only dries at any reasonable speed above 16. Small joinery shops can struggle with this in winter. Sending out joinery in the winter, where the paint hasn't put cross linked fully will result in paint failure...mostly peeling.

Joinery detailing has more influence on paint longevity than the paint brand (joinery factories all use either Sikkens, Teknos, Remmers pretty much and they are all pretty much same base materials)

If it was me, Id order timber windows avoiding the winter.

Don't be put off...I've made windows and they've still looked pretty immaculate after 7 or 8 years - modern finishes last an awful long time. You just need to keep the paint surface clean by washing once or twice a year - and dealing with any minor peeling or surface splits (minor effort - it means a few small repairs maybe once a year). You could probably get upto 10 years before reprinting and even then you only need a rub back and paint over- nonstripping back required.

Engineered softwood is fine for windows.
Meranti is a budget hardwood option, I can't see any advantage over softwood
Accoya is great but has issues with steel, so any hardware has to be stainless - not always possible. It's also brittle - not a problem for windows, but Ive seen door tenons snap.

Try George Barnsdale or Howard for supply only pricing (if you know how to survey and specify).
They are manufacturers so they won't fit, they might have local installers / dealers though

If you want real budget look at stairbox

It may help to post some pics of the outside of your windows to advise further.

 

[DC1977]

Thanks for the info @Notch7 very helpful. Here is a photo of our current windows and one from a neighbour down the road showing the mouldings that we might hope to replicate...

 

[DC1977]

@Notch7 Thanks for your guidance.

I've been in touch with one supplier, they do the windows in engineered softwood pine (redwood?) with a hardwood cill. Their warranty is only 8 years for paint covering as opposed to 10 with the meranti, the windows themselves have a 20 year warranty, as opposed to 30 with the meranti. So just got to weigh up is the extra cost worth it? In your opinion from your earlier post I take it you don't think it is?

Their windows all comply with the spec you outlined earlier as well (thanks again). The beading currently specified is Lambs tongue, but I think this could be changed? Is this purely a looks decision?

 

[DC1977]

There are 2 key things to consider:

1 length of time between re decoration cycles
2 anticipated lifespan.

The detailing of the joinery is key, look for:

1) A V groove at all external joints, sash and frame
2) a 3mm radius on all external edges
3) drained and vented rebates for glazing
4) detailing of glazing bead

On another note, virtually all factory finishing of joinery is done with water based paints. Nothing wrong with that, but there is one main problem: winter curing. The paint doesn't cure at all below 12 degrees C and only dries at any reasonable speed above 16. Small joinery shops can struggle with this in winter. Sending out joinery in the winter, where the paint hasn't put cross linked fully will result in paint failure...mostly peeling.

Joinery detailing has more influence on paint longevity than the paint brand (joinery factories all use either Sikkens, Teknos, Remmers pretty much and they are all pretty much same base materials)

If it was me, Id order timber windows avoiding the winter.

Don't be put off...I've made windows and they've still looked pretty immaculate after 7 or 8 years - modern finishes last an awful long time. You just need to keep the paint surface clean by washing once or twice a year - and dealing with any minor peeling or surface splits (minor effort - it means a few small repairs maybe once a year). You could probably get upto 10 years before reprinting and even then you only need a rub back and paint over- nonstripping back required.

Engineered softwood is fine for windows.
Meranti is a budget hardwood option, I can't see any advantage over softwood
Accoya is great but has issues with steel, so any hardware has to be stainless - not always possible. It's also brittle - not a problem for windows, but Ive seen door tenons snap.

Try George Barnsdale or Howard for supply only pricing (if you know how to survey and specify).
They are manufacturers so they won't fit, they might have local installers / dealers though

If you want real budget look at stairbox

It may help to post some pics of the outside of your windows to advise further.

hi @Notch7 or anyone else!, any views on Morells Omnia paint
https://morrells.co.uk/products/wood-finishes/

Would you be happy with this on engineered softwood timber windows?

thanks!

 

[DC1977]

hi @Notch7 or anyone else!, any views on Morells Omnia paint
https://morrells.co.uk/products/wood-finishes/

Would you be happy with this on engineered softwood timber windows?

thanks!

Can anyone help with this one?

 

[DC1977]

Also anyone get any idea on this moulding above the bay window....does it look timber? Been quoted an extortionate price to replicate this (pic from neighbour) wondered if it could be done as a polyurethane cornice? Anyone with any experience of this? Thanks!