Wiring for Gloworm 30si

[albany]

Moved into new house and boiler permanent 240v supply is wired through timer/thermostat.

Link is in place so that boiler runs continuously when powered up. Works OK but manual explicitly states it should NOT be wired this way.

Have removed link, added permanent supply and connected timer/thermostat output to 240v external control terminal. When permanent supply is switched on, boiler fan runs briefly and display shows pressure and green light. However, when external controls terminal from timer/thermostat goes live, boiler does not fire up.

1) What are possible consequnces of leaving it wired like it was and is it safe to do so - it's been like this for 3 years at least?
2) What am I doing wrong to run with a true permanent supply and external controls wired correctly?

 

[gas4you]

I think it may be time for a new pcb.

If you read the MI's carefully, it clearly states that 'under no circumstances must mains volatage be applied to any of the external controls connections'.

Therefore this boilers appears to need volt free connections only.

 

[albany]

Hi gas4you

The model I have has volt free connections which as you say must never be connected to mains but also has a separate "230V" external controls board (optional perhaps?) for mains voltage external controls. As I read it it's meant to be useable with either type of controls but with removal of a link when not on volt free.

I've tried the clearly marked 230v terminals. No smoke but also no action!

 

[gas4you]

My mistake Mis read that bit in the MI's.

It now reads to me though the the volt free link is only removed when volt free controls are connected and should remain in place if terminal 2 and/or 3 are used for 240V external controls.

I would put the link back and try it. There will be 'no voltage' on this link.

 

[albany]

Cheers Dave,

I'll give it a go and post the results.

Andy

 

[picasso]

it looks to me as if the link should be removed if external controls are fitted, have you checked that you actually have 230v on terminal 2, its very easy to screw into the insulation.

 

[matt1e]

it looks to me as if the link should be removed if external controls are fitted, have you checked that you actually have 230v on terminal 2, its very easy to screw into the insulation.

picasso is correct the link should be removed, if after checking for 230 on terminal 2 proves ok check connections to plug h6 on the main pcb

 

[albany]

Hi,

Thanks everyone for the prompt and helpful responses.

It sounds like I've wired it correctly but there's some sort of fault on the boiler.

Checked with meter probed onto the terminal block so definitely making a 230v connection to terminal 2. Also pulled the terminal block off and made sure the block is making a good clean connection with pins on PCB. I'll check back through H6.

There are 4 DIP switches on the display board. Do these do anything relevant?

I'm thinking the 230v board may be faulty. If so, if I rig up a relay across the volt free terminals switched by the mains timer/thermostat output, I think that'll do the same job by closing the volt free circuit when the timer/thermostat line is live. I'm not familiar with volt free stuff Will what I'm suggesting work?

Andy

 

[matt1e]

I'm thinking the 230v board may be faulty. If so, if I rig up a relay across the volt free terminals switched by the mains timer/thermostat output, I think that'll do the same job by closing the volt free circuit when the timer/thermostat line is live. I'm not familiar with volt free stuff Will what I'm suggesting work?

Andy

Yes it will

 

[albany]

All done.

Used 240v switched relay and all working well now. I guess 230v board is faulty - perhaps why it was wired incorrectly orginally.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Andy