Worcester Bosch 28i Junior Developed Leak

[lotusman]

Hi everyone
New to the forum but found this topic after just getting home to find water coming through the ceiling....
I have a Worcester Greenstar 24i boiler, I located the leak to the flow unit Rob put a picture up of, it has lots of tiny pin holes in it!
Being a bank holiday I am a little stuck as isolated the mains supply to the house.
I have found the part at the local plumbcentre £26 which does not open til the morning.
The question is can I fix it??
It looks OK and i have the instruction manual, is it a DIY possible job and do I need to remove the whole assembly with heat exchanger/pump etc or can I just change the flow unit(87161063560)?
I am a marine mechanical engineer by trade and my hobbies are classic car restorations so have a good range of tools. I have done plumbing before but not worked on the boiler itself. Do I have to disturb the gas or just the water side?
Not trying to cut corners but do like to get stuck in provided it is safe.
Any help would be appreciated
Many Thanks
Dave

 

[Agile]

I will let other comment on your abilities. Most boiler repairs are bad enough for those who work on them and particularly when plastic parts involved.

Shutting off the mains water to the house is not necessary.

All you need to do is close the cold in isolator under the boiler!

Tony

 

[lotusman]

Many thanks Tony
I did try the isolation valve first but the water was still coming through, I have cycled the valve now a few times and it seems to have stopped so at least have water on again.
The job does look OK and I have all the tools as just been up checking, only thing I am not sure about is the strange white clip on the top connection, I have not tried to remove the flow unit yet as would like the part in my hand first but have slackened all the fittings and retightened to make sure I didn't need to buy any more tools.
The top connection has a tang on it so guessing you push together like a quick release coupling on engines?
Still not sure if it is best to remove the hydraulic block complete or just go for the flow valve though?

 

[lotusman]

All done, got the part from Plumbcentre this morning and must say I was impressed as it came with all the seals, clips and fixings and even some spare seals.
Job was fine and I didn't need to remove the hydraulic block which was a bonus, worst part was getting the old fibre washers off the supply and return pipework as they were well stuck with age.
I have cold filled the system and got the heating and radiators back on and vented but will need to put the inhibitor in this weekend. Not too much of a worry as we have good soft water down here although seem to pay the price for it!
From start to finish was about 2 hours although the house clean up after the leak will be going of for some time yet......
Great forum and will be using it more often.
Many Thanks
Dave

 

[Agile]

Did you really need to drain the heating?

I thought your leak was only on the mains water parts?

Tony

 

[lotusman]

Hi Tony
No I never drained it to do the job itself but decided to flush the system through by draining from the lowest radiator out to the back yard.
The boiler has not been serviced for a while and I dit have some black grit in the syphon box so thought what the hell lets do it now.
My heating engineer emigrated to Canada so have been a little lazy about finding a new one.
The radiator system was a bit grubby so glad I have given it a good flush through and cleaned the syphon box out.
The heating and hot water are great again.
Anyone recommend a good local guy who is not out to sting people as think it is time to get it serviced before another winter.
Guy down the plumbcentre said these flow units go all the time and he had them under the counter to save keep going upstairs!
Cheers
Dave

 

[Agile]

Although all these plastic bits look very similar we seem to see a lot of failures on GlowWorm and Worcester boilers.

Other makers bits seem to fare better.

Tony

 

[sharknose]

Ive got a leak in the same part. Im struggling to visualize how im going to get the copper pipes out of the flow manifold enabling me to get the flow manifold out as there is no room to either pull the pipes up or down. the manual say undo the nuts and remove the pipes but to remove the copper pipes I would have to lift the pipe up from the inlet but there just isn't any room to move the pipe up. How is it done lotusman? Anyone

 

[ALCPlumbing]

The pipes have flanges on the end and sit flush against the manifold. Once you undo the nuts it will slide out.

 

[sharknose]

cheers for that. just realised that myself actually. will tackle it in the morning.

 

[leif klingsheim]

cheers for that. just realised that myself actually. will tackle it in the morning.

same problem with spray leak, got the new part, how to remove the white connection?

 

[AGAS]

same problem with spray leak, got the new part, how to remove the white connection?

 

[jeff the gasman]

I will let other comment on your abilities. Most boiler repairs are bad enough for those who work on them and particularly when plastic parts involved.

Shutting off the mains water to the house is not necessary.

All you need to do is close the cold in isolator under the boiler!

Tony

Tony, you are a genius. I never thought of that. Was that you on the underground today with a Trianco solid fuel boiler?

 

[jeff the gasman]

My petrol lawnmower packed up but the lawn mower repair man got it sorted .