Worktop issue

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Hi.

Can someone please clear this up for me.

I have fitted a new kitchen and one of the sections has two curved corner units at each end.

I have been told by the chippie that I need to use a solid wood worktop, rather than laminate as I would have to send the laminate worktop away to have the edges laminated properly (to give it the best finish).

I can fully understand what he is saying, but I've got someone else telling me that he is talking rubbish.

I personally cannot see how (on a completely sweeping curve) you can fit the laminate strip edge and get a good finish.

Is the chippie right or wrong.

Thanks.
 
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Done that many times, do not see a problem
 
A good kitchen fitter could attach laminate trim to the worktop, but IMHO, solid wood or maia/ corian/ speedstone/ granite would look so much better than laminate worktop trimmed with laminate. ;) ;)
 
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Thanks joinerjohn.

I didn't want to start asking to many questions to the chippie just incase he got a bit pi..ed off with me and ended up not doing it.

He did initially say it can't be done, then he said it woudn't look as good as using a solid worktop (something like the ones you mentioned).

Cheers.
 
make sure that the edge strip comes 'flat'. I've had B&Q edge strips that are wound into a tight little reel and are a real pig to attach as they just want to unwind.
 
Miter jig will router the worktop. Granted, it will look a bit naff where the laminate is finished at the front.
 
make sure that the edge strip comes 'flat'. I've had B&Q edge strips that are wound into a tight little reel and are a real pig to attach as they just want to unwind.

Most sheds supply laminate worktop that comes complete with a length of laminate trim. B&Q got greedy and now only sell it in these stupid rolls. At £25 a pop for the laminate trim, they must be making a fortune for Kingfisher Group. I always suggest to customers that they order their worktops from someone else, even if the Cooke and Lewis kitchen is from B&Q. ;) ;) ;)
 
A hot iron will soon flatten even the tightest of rolled up edging.

A full curve can be done on laminate .. it takes a little patience and IMHO does not look great even when well done .. as stated earlier .. the solid surface tops are best for this .. or tree wood.

Phill
 
deuce - if all you can afford is laminate then consider edging the whole w/t in one continuous piece ... therefore no visable joins. It means routing a slither off the existing edging back to the chipboard then fixing the new edging strip with contact adhesive. The trouble with doing this is that surface (top) layer of laminate stops at the 'inside' (back) of the edging so it means very careful chamfering with a file and always a chance of a gap. The proper way to laminate is edge first then top (to get the top to 'overlap' the edge, then chamfer but clearly you can't do this. An alternative is to cut the laminate top with angles, maybe 45 degrees or others so as to produce vertical join positions so that edging stip can be applied neatly.

Obviously, as others have said the best way is granite (or other 'stone') or solid wood. IMO solid wood look great new but just wait 'till it gets wet, or isn't maintained properly ... it'll look manky. No, granite is the way to go if you can afford it.
 

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