I agree with the previous poster - avoid climb milling with a hand router at all costs. The tendency for the whole shooting match to get away from you is too great, especially as you should be using a 1600 to 2000watt router to do the job. A point not mentioned earlier is that for straight 2-flute cutters the depth of a cut should never exceed 100% of the diameter, so saying 12mm is only good if the cutter is about that diameter. Another point is that when trimming worktop the router is normally run on the side of the slot away from the finished edge (the guide bush is actually smaller than the slot by 0.5 to 1mm and run against the "finish" side of the slot ONLY for the final cut. For the best quality cut the guide bush does need to be centred (deWalt provide a tapered centring mandrel for the purpose, so do Festool). And lastly, if you haven't tried them, replaceable-tip carbide blades give a far superior quality of cut over brazed carbide, even if you need to turn them over after 3 or 4 cuts to ensure that they stay sharp. Downside is that they cost a bomb.
Anyone here tried using biscuits to line up the joint vertically? Works pretty well. Last tip - get some of the coloured adhesive to match the worktop. This gets smeared onto the joint before you tighten-up the fasteners and "glues" the joint together giving a waterproof joint that won't swell with age....
Scrit
Anyone here tried using biscuits to line up the joint vertically? Works pretty well. Last tip - get some of the coloured adhesive to match the worktop. This gets smeared onto the joint before you tighten-up the fasteners and "glues" the joint together giving a waterproof joint that won't swell with age....
Scrit
