Yet another...no hot water without heating!

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Hi folks, I'm in the same boat as a lot of some of the other people on this forum and happy to figure out where things are a miss, but hoping someone can maybe provide some indicative thoughts...

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Just realised they were too small :)
Can upload the 1024 versions if the site allows

Thanks!
 
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Usually caused by a faulty microswitch in the HW motor valve.

Tony
 
Usually caused by a faulty microswitch in the HW motor valve.

Tony

The microswitch is more likely to stick in the NO position thereby running the boiler whilst the motorised valve is closed. The microswitch is a biased mechanism that snaps over as the operating button is depressed or released. This mechanism when it fails or breaks, often ends up in aforementioned position

So, more likely to be duff syncron motor in HW MV perhaps:)?
Check if brown wire to Honeywell M valve is live during HW On
If yes, is the motor running?
If not, remove the motor and check again if it is running.. If not, replace motor
If no power when HW On at programmer, then track back the way to locate why no power to motorised valve.

Elementary stuff you should not be asking if you are attempting to fix it OP(n)
 
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Thanks for the input, chaps.
Bit I hadn't quite worked out is why the 2 valves were on the same circuit. Or in other words why the HW & CH look to be on the same piping, if that makes sense!
But DP's response now clarifies this.

I'll sort this out at the weekend and let you know how it goes, thanks again :)




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Don't you just luv these photos. All the important stuff covered by DaftyDIYers tools & sh.t!! It's like having wedding photos taken with your mother-in-law in front of the bride & groom!!

We want to see your system fella not your crappy junk tools!!!
 
So, more likely to be duff syncron motor in HW MV

I would have expected that the motor will be operating the valve, because if the valve was permanently closed, the hot water wouldn't come on even when the heating was on. It may be possible I suppose that it is physically stuck partially open, and I have also seen one instance of a valve motor being too weak to drive the mechanism fully over to operate the microswitch, but usually the motors seem to fail completely. So, unless the wiring has been damaged or altered, I would suspect the microswitch, but this can only be confirmed by electrical testing.

For someone with electrical competence it's easy to test. So if you can use a multimeter safely, check for 230 VAC across the motorised valves brown and blue wires with the hot water on. That will show that the signal for the hot water to operate from the controls, and the neutral are present. If that's OK then, next, isolate the system electrically, disconnect the hot water motorised valves orange and grey wires from the wiring centre [noting carefully where they came from so that you can put them back] and connect them to the multimeter set to measure resistance [Ω Ohms] you should get a very high reading or 'infinity'. Now power up the motorised valve again and if the microswitch is operating, the value should fall to 0 ohms or thereabouts.
 

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