Zone Valve - Humidistat - Worcester combi?

[lummocks]

Hi Guys,

I'm wondering if anyone can help, I'd love to find a solution for this problem.

We've just had a new bathroom and airing cuboard fitted with a Worchester 30si combi. The bathroom doesnt have any windows and the extractor fan isn't doing enough to stop the bathroom staying very damp and humid during the day, which tends now in the summer to get used (the shower) around 5 times a day.

I've spoken to the installer who has told us because we have had a wiresless room stat in the hallway downstairs we couldn't fit another stat (in this case I was thinking a humidistat) and a zone valve so we could have the towel rail heating the room to help clear the condensation.

I work in from home in the room next to the bathroom and can't stand the constant noise from the in line extractor fan (despite being quiet!)

Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

I'm tempted to hard wire a basic room stat downstairs and use the humidistat that I talk about and ditch the wireless controlls, but we have the digital programmer for the hot water pre heat also so this could be a pain.

I'd love to hear some ideas!

Thanks,

Mike

 

[Dan Robinson]

You can't really have to thermostats controlling the combi unless you split the heating into two zones.

One solution, although maybe not the cheapest to operate, would probably be the cheapest to implement would be an electric towel rail or radiator.

It is easy enough to split the heating system into two zones, but will probably result in a lot of upheaval.

Another solution is The Honeywell Evo Home control system that uses wireless radiator valves and allows you to split the house into up to 8 separate zones without changing the pipes.

Might be a bonus if you work from home as you could have the house split into 3 zones - living, working and bathroom.

Is there no way of getting a window fitted?

My bathroom window was built over as part of a previous extension, so in our recent building works I have a light tunnel built up through the loft and a velux into the roof with a remote controlled electrical opening device.

Very funky - has a timed close feature as well as a rain sensor.

I think you can get solar powered ones as well.

 

[lummocks]

Thanks Dan, some good ideas there.

As for upheaval the house is currently under a massive makeover so at the moment all pipes are exposed from the room below.

No scope for a window as it's on the middle floor of a 3 story victorian semi and the only wall that isn't a stud wall is the party wall.

Would like to avoid fitting a new towel rail - electric, as the room is finished.

The light tunnel you mention sounds great!

The issue my installer mentioned was that you can't have a wireless and a hard wired stat running sequentially, I'm not sure if this is due to the boiler connections being used for the wireless receiver and hot water pre heat timer though. Woukd have to dig through some diagrams.

 

[Dan Robinson]

The issue my installer mentioned was that you can't have a wireless and a hard wired stat running sequentially, I'm not sure if this is due to the boiler connections being used for the wireless receiver and hot water pre heat timer though. Woukd have to dig through some diagrams.

Your installer doesn't sound too imaginative...


With Evo, you lose the existing stat and replace it with the Evotouch screen and however many rad valve heads you needed.

The heads then talk to the screen unit and that controls a relay box that activates the boiler for heating. The individual rads then do what is programmed.

However, if you have the ability to split the heating, then that would be better long term.

Just fit a standard S-Plan - with the bathroom on its own zone. You could even put your work area on its own zone and have an S-plan+.

Then you have a programmable room thermostat - either wired or wireless - for each zone.

It really is simple to do once the pipes are done.

 

[Dan Robinson]

Just noticed the hot water pre heat comment.... it isn't the end of the word if that stays on or off.... can't remember which way round it is on the Worcester, but there is also a myriad of options that are accessible to those in the know to change how the boiler operates.