Dumb Question...
- Thread starter dbbyleo
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i think so yes. Tho some schools use something described as Whiteglue which i think isnt as strong... its Polly vynal actitate PVA
Elmer’s Glue-All seems to be PVA
Elmer’s Glue-All seems to be PVA
dumb questions don't exist 
(only dumb answers, not meaning sidecar-jon before this gets read wrong)
(only dumb answers, not meaning sidecar-jon before this gets read wrong)
2
2scoops0406
But then again Poly vinyl acetate should really be called poly ethyl ethanoate or PEE for short
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Try that explaining to the customers, oh yes and for glueing the boards together we use pee
do they not use urea in glues...and chease! (casin glues)
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I was in Wickes today and they gave a new range of waterproof PVA.
It is (according to the label) specially formulated for exterior use and waterproofing render and mortar. It is also used for sealing plaster in wet areas such as in showers.
They can't write that on the label if it doesn't do the job.
I guess it has a polymer additive that prevents the stuff reconstituting and going all gooey.
joe (It's on special at 10 litres for £25.)
It is (according to the label) specially formulated for exterior use and waterproofing render and mortar. It is also used for sealing plaster in wet areas such as in showers.
They can't write that on the label if it doesn't do the job.
I guess it has a polymer additive that prevents the stuff reconstituting and going all gooey.
joe (It's on special at 10 litres for £25.)
Thats interesting, there used to be a waterproof PVA that was a rather unatractive yellow. My mate whos a Doctor of Chemisty said it was due to Chromium salts in it, which were eventuly deemed by the EEC too dangerious for the general public.
Dun no... i never saw it. the guy said it was very good tho. I hope the Wikes product is too, i will try it.
Thanks for all the interesting replies. I'm glad I asked. In the future, any tips I get suggesting to use PVA glue, I'll assume Elmers Glue-All is well to do. I did a little more research on Elmers website and found their MSDS sheet on their products. It does say, for most of their wood glue, that they are PVAC based. Don't know what the "C" stands for, but the "PVA" was indicative enough for me.
Here's another one....
What's the distinctive difference between PVA and Polyurethane glue? If I recall, someone said that each has a specific application. What would that be? Another said that Polyurethane "expands" - but I'm sure what that really means and what the implications are on woodworking (I'm a novice, remember)....
Here's another one....
What's the distinctive difference between PVA and Polyurethane glue? If I recall, someone said that each has a specific application. What would that be? Another said that Polyurethane "expands" - but I'm sure what that really means and what the implications are on woodworking (I'm a novice, remember)....
im not too sure but i have seen wood glues that sort of foam to fill gaps. theres lots of differing glues about some are flexible (Like Sikaflex) and others rigid (like cascafen etc).. in any case all glue joints should be as thin as posible if they are being put under any pressure. It was explained to me as like two wet ropes, frozen tight together they are actuly quite flexible, but if the ice is say and inch thick then they are brittle.
dbbyleo said:
Pva takes longer to dry, is not usually waterproof, is a lot cheaper.
Polyurethane (PU) adhesive is dry in about 10-15 minutes, I think it's generally waterproof and I use it for exterior joinery. It starts to cure on contact with the moisture in the wood (don't leave the top off the bottle for long periods or it turns to jelly, that's English jelly not American!)
PU adhesive starts to foam and expand as it cures so you don't need much. However you shouldn't use it as a gap-filling glue (eg. if your joints are slack) because once it has foamed it doesn't have much strength.
Also, PU is more expensive and it gets everywhere and makes a mess of your hands which is difficult to remove.
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