Bathroom and soil pipe.

[Hugh Jaleak]

Providing the existing pipework is sound and in good condition I'd personally make a connection onto the existing pipe, outside the chamber. That chamber looks to have been well built, with neat benching, all you're doing by disturbing it is making work for yourself. The existing pipes are salt glazed stoneware, either a 'Fernco' type connector, or I usually use these, from Wickes. http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-110mm-PVCu-Soil-To-Clay-Drain-Connector/p/432046.

Carefully cut through the clay pipe, to give a clean edge, then chamfer the outside edge, then apply a suitable lubricant to the collar and end of pipe before fitting. Carry on from there in 110mm plastic to the house.

 

[Screech20]

Sounds like a plan to me!

I uncovered the whole length yesterday, to check it was all sound.
I'm going to make the joint just before the first clay joint. Not sure how I'm going to cut it with the other services in the way yet tho. Maybe a Dremel or die grinder.

I've started knocking out inside too, but just struggling to work out where the lintels need to go, as it's going through at an angle.
I think I've decided to put a lintel in that's too long, knock out bricks as required to get the pipe in place, then lay bricks back in place if the hole is excessive but leaving 50mm around the whole pipe.

Cheers

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Lintel sounds fine, as long as the weight of the wall above is kept off the pipe. (Always strikes me as odd, we lintel over at foundation level, yet go a few feet up say for a ground floor W.C. soil to come through the wall, and no lintel is required!)

You can hire a chain cutter for clay pipes, but it needs to wrap round the pipe to work, if room is limited, this wont help much I suppose.

 

[Screech20]

I've been wondering the same myself, and but glad you prod think the same!
Just to keep the bco happy!

Sounds good, I'll have a look to see how much room that will take up. Failing that, I've ordered some diamond bits for my Dremel, that should do it!
Then I've got the close around the pipe with compressible materiel, what should that be? Some fibreglass insulation or celetex?

Also... Around 25mm per meter fall?
Rest bend to manhole is just under 3m straight run

Cheers!

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

1:40 fall is the rule of thumb, can drop to as low as 1:100 if really necessary and conditions allow. I used fibreglass when I did mine, BCO liked that.

 

[Screech20]

Great. Well I've got the hole through and pipe in place, just having trouble working out what the fall is!
Managed to cut the old pipe with an angle grinder in the end


My only worry is that I've disturbed the first joint out of the manhole, and it has a slight wobble to it, but hoping it will be alright

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

1/2 bubble on a 1m spirit level will be enough, provided you have enough room to get that as a constant over the run.

 

[Screech20]

Thanks Hugh!
I've managed to get around 55mm over 2.3m, which is just over half a bubble.
Think I'm almost ready for my first BC inspection this week.

I take it I need to bed the rest bend into pea shingle the same as the pipe itself?

Got a bit more gap filling than I initially thought which is going to be a pain.
Going to brick a few bits back in to make it a bit nicer then cram in the insulation. I take it this can go all the way through between inner and outer leafs?






Thanks once again!!

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Nice job! I'd personally put a bit of concrete under and haunched up around that rest bend, just to keep everything in place, then pea shingle the rest. I'd think the glassfibre should be ok, basically your ensuring there's room around the pipe to allow for any slight movement in the masonry.

 

[Screech20]

Thanks hugh.

I think I have a problem though!

Where I've cut theropod pipe just after the man hole, I've just had a look down it, and where the clay has its first joint from the man hole, there's a slight lip.
I've attached a pic, it's not overly clear but hopefully you can see.

Am I better off replacing from the manhole now I've noticed or will it be ok?


Cheers

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Did that section take the WC before?

 

[Screech20]

No it didn't, which is what I'm worried about.
There's not going to be one on it yet, but when we do the loft conversion in a couple of years time there will be.

I'm thinking I just need to replace it otherwise it'll be in the back of my mind!

Cheers

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

It may be as well while you've got the trench open, it removes any possible risk of problems in the future. If your doing it, may as well do it right.

 

[Screech20]

I'll get some bits and bobs tomorrow then. Pushes me back another day but at least I'll know it's right!

What's the deal with cementing the new pipe in place and benching? Does it need to be special waterproof mix of some kind or just normal sand and cement?


Cheers!

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Just a strong sand/cement mix will do. (High cement content.) For large sewers where the manholes are built using concrete, then the final smooth coating is made using 'Grano dust' instead of sand, as it has harder wearing properties.