Ok, cheers. Just thought it was worth double checking. Out of interest, is there any point in getting a thermostat fitted to the cylinder, or based on the age of the system would I be aswell just overhauling the whole lot?
Can someone explain this hot water system for me? (potential house purchase)
- Thread starter Mmcgar
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I can't see if you have gravity feed to the cylinder, but it is likely. Photos of the pipework and pump would confirm.
A cyl stat can be wired to give you better control and turn off the boiler when the cylinder is hot, but this will only save you money when the heating is off, so will be beneficial in summer. If you are updating the system you would want it to be fully pumped with a 3-port motorised valve controlled by the cyl stat and the room stat. It might not be worthwhile yet, if you are thinking about changing the boiler and/or cylinder, do it then. But if you are fitting a new programmer/timer, connect the stat(s) at the same time. It is a trivial job if you can do basic wiring (but is at mains voltage so isolate power and work safe).
The yellow insulated cylinders are quite old, you can reduce heat loss a bit by adding a red jacket and lagging the hot pipes. Sometimes old installations, especially in older people's houses, do not have room stats, and this will make a big difference in winter costs and comfort.
A cyl stat can be wired to give you better control and turn off the boiler when the cylinder is hot, but this will only save you money when the heating is off, so will be beneficial in summer. If you are updating the system you would want it to be fully pumped with a 3-port motorised valve controlled by the cyl stat and the room stat. It might not be worthwhile yet, if you are thinking about changing the boiler and/or cylinder, do it then. But if you are fitting a new programmer/timer, connect the stat(s) at the same time. It is a trivial job if you can do basic wiring (but is at mains voltage so isolate power and work safe).
The yellow insulated cylinders are quite old, you can reduce heat loss a bit by adding a red jacket and lagging the hot pipes. Sometimes old installations, especially in older people's houses, do not have room stats, and this will make a big difference in winter costs and comfort.
It's been hinted at already but there is a reliability advantage over a combi. All the parts are essentially separate and many are diy-able. Heat only boilers are generally more reliable than combis due to having fewer parts, and you have the option of an immersion heater for hot water backup. If the water supply is interrupted due to works etc you have some stored water, same in a power cut, maybe not a big advantage but appealing for some. For 9 months of the year the small amount of heat lost from the cylinder will be heat the boiler doesn't need to put into the house.
Disadvantages are lower pressure at taps, loft tanks need to have lids to keep vermin out, and the space taken up by the cylinder.
It's your choice obviously but what type of hot water system is installed, would be fairly low down on the list of priorities when buying a house, for me anyway. More important is location, space, whether it's water-tight etc.
Disadvantages are lower pressure at taps, loft tanks need to have lids to keep vermin out, and the space taken up by the cylinder.
It's your choice obviously but what type of hot water system is installed, would be fairly low down on the list of priorities when buying a house, for me anyway. More important is location, space, whether it's water-tight etc.
Sorry to labour this point, I appreciate all the comments so far I'd just like to clarify, is the link below the type of cylinder Id be looking to buy if I replaced the unit. Also, in terms of the cylinder, if during the summer I didn't run the heating I'd have no hot water as the boiler wouldn't be heating the cylinder?
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http://m.screwfix.com/p/rm-prostel-unvented-indirect-cylinder-120-litre/78034?_bck=1
Sorry forgot to post the link
Sorry forgot to post the link
there are various brands, but yes, that sort of thing. It does not need a cold tank in the loft to feed it, it is fed direct from the incoming supply. It is an advantage to get a good big one.
You need to measure the flow (in litres per minute) coming into your house from the watermain to see if it would be suitable. In some rural areas the supply is poor.
You need to measure the flow (in litres per minute) coming into your house from the watermain to see if it would be suitable. In some rural areas the supply is poor.
If you're looking to change to unvented and do away with the tank in the attic, you'd need to check the incoming mains had adequate pressure and flow, get controls upgraded and find a route for a discharge pipe.
A straight swap for your vented cylinder would be something like this
http://www.screwfix.com/p/rm-1200-x-450-indirect-cylinder/86775
Which is a bigger size to give more hot water for multiple showers or baths (the existing cylinder is probably 450x900)
Edit: post race with JohnD.
A straight swap for your vented cylinder would be something like this
http://www.screwfix.com/p/rm-1200-x-450-indirect-cylinder/86775
Which is a bigger size to give more hot water for multiple showers or baths (the existing cylinder is probably 450x900)
Edit: post race with JohnD.
Sorry iv been getting mixed up between vented and unvented cylinders! Thanks again for the info, this has really helped. I'm edging towards just replacing the cylinder and fittings a thermostat on it.
D
Doggit
Sorry Mm, but if you just replace the cylinder on a like for like basis, you're going to regret it. You can stick with existing boiler (but I'd replace that as well for a more efficient one) but with all the baths you want, you're not going to get the hot water supply from a replacement vented cylinder. Use the crap system to get a reduction on the price, and then upgrade it sensibly. You're looking at spending thousands on the house, but you're then being stingy on a few grand for a good heating and hot water system.
are we sure thats not a direct cylinder
Ha I'd love to say I'm not stingy but I'd probably be lying! I had a bid accepted today i got £1500 off the price based on the boiler. I suppose I'll see how badly efficient all this is when I get my 1st bill, from the comments in the home report however it is likely I will have to replace the system in the near future so I might get some quotes, cost unfortunately will be an issue to a certain extent though! Any more than maybe 2 - 2.5k will give me palpitations
Hi mate, it says indirect on the sticker on the front.
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