Halstead Finest Gold - DHW problem

The good thing is you haven't drowned in a cold bath and the other bit is your fin divertor is **** ed
 
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lol, where do you lot get the patience from
 
AHA !!!

Now then this saucer shaped thingy ... on the neck of it does it have a few stubby screws that are sort of half screwed in ??
 
sime10 said:
The good thing is you haven't drowned in a cold bath and the other bit is your fin divertor is f***** ed

What makes you think that the diverter is F****ed :confused:
 
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paul993 said:
AHA !!!

Now then this saucer shaped thingy ... on the neck of it does it have a few stubby screws that are sort of half screwed in ??

Thats the one.
 
and lets say .... hypothetically of course.... that some idiot wondered why those screws were half out, and got the biggest screwdriver he could lay his hands on...... and soft of "tightened" them a bit.........well quite a lot actually........what would that do

hypothetically of course
 
paul993 said:
and lets say .... hypothetically of course.... that some idiot wondered why those screws were half out, and got the biggest screwdriver he could lay his hands on...... and soft of "tightened" them a bit.........well quite a lot actually........what would that do

hypothetically of course


If getting wet is what you are after then pull one of them little clips that hold the impulse tube in

That was a joke

Stop fannying around with it, you won't get it going.

Them little screws just hold the saucer type thingy on to the diverter so you can tighten them and undo them until your hearts content nowt will happen.
 
Ok ... cheers Sime...(phew :oops: )

So .... can someone confirm that swapping the thermistors over wouldn't cause any problems ( same part number according to halstead ...both measured at 10K)

Also, If I take this diaphragm apart will I need any rubber rings /copper washers etc...... or do you normally just replace the whole thing ?

Also these little pipes .... when you say O rings, are they what I call olives ? Or are they rubber ?

Any idea how mech a new divertor / diaphragm / what av u costs ?
 
Don't suppose any of you are near Todmorden (Lancs / Yorks border) with some spare time on your hands :cry:
 
FFS

Ok ... cheers Sime...(phew

What are you thanking him for, i just spent the last hour diagnosing your fault for free.

So .... can someone confirm that swapping the thermistors over wouldn't cause any problems ( same part number according to halstead ...both measured at 10K)

Chill,, they are the same :rolleyes:



Also, If I take this diaphragm apart will I need any rubber rings /copper washers etc...... or do you normally just replace the whole thing ?

If you are going to do it yourself (god forbid) buy the whole lot.

Also these little pipes .... when you say O rings, are they what I call olives ? Or are they rubber ?

O rings are made of rubber. DO NOT attempt this job without new ones for the impulse tubes.

Any idea how mech a new divertor / diaphragm / what av u costs ?

Why do you want a new diverter?
 
I was thanking him cos he answered first (hadn't read your post yet)

Whilst I'm typing something loads of other messages come in.....and it all gets out of sync and confusing.

Anyway .... THANKYOU MR SCATMAN .... seriously.... . and for a columbian you've got quite a northern twang :D If you ever need any computer advice give us a shout (I know how they work much better )

I can't help tinkering with things (as long as I'm not going near any gas connections)

So .... Let me see If I've got this straight in my head.... The diaphragm sits in the saucer....the diaphram is pushed / pulled by a pressure difference across the two little pipes (??). When the diaphragm moves it activates the divertor (which is in the casing the saucers grub screws fasten to). The divertor then blocks the main CH flow and creates a smaller circuit purely within the boiler......this ciruit heats the exchanger, allowing the cold water passing through the exchanger to get heated en-route to the taps.

So (a)if one of the little pipes is blocked, the pressure difference will not be sufficient to move the diaphragm

(b)If the diaphragm is ripped it will not actuate the divertor

(c)Or the divertor itself could be jiggered ??could it???
 
HEY .... if I've overtightened the grub screws, would that not "pinch" the diverter and cause the problem I'm seeing ?

Or is the housing all cast, and would crack rather than bend >?
 

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