heatline combi lockout

[rufer]

I have replaced the gas valve=I have had the gas valve replaced=the gas valve has been replaced..........

read it how you like, I was keeping things simple, its a forum not a script writing master class

Thanks for the info, I'll ask if set it up at all.

Basically I have no hot water or heating still and am too skint to get a full on independant engineer round. My mate can help a bit, but is very busy, so I thought I'd do some research, order parts myself as required and get him to fix it IOU style.

Still looking for the answers, but will ask how he set it up, if at all.

Any further info appreciated.

 

[Agile]

If the boiler is to work properly and safely (!) its essential that the gas valve min/max pressures are set correctly.

Until this is done its not possible to know if there is any other fault.

Tony

 

[Bagelly]

I also had a Heatline S30 boiler with this same intermittent fault.

I switch the boiler on and it will ignite and pump water to the rads but after 5-10 mins the gas will cut out, the boiler then tries to ignite again it sparks but does not ignite. It tries to ingite a few times and then the "check burner ionisation probe" LED flashes. If you switch it off and on again it will work as before for 5-10 mins.

I employed a Corgi (now Gas Safe) registered plumber who immediately concluded it was the gas valve. This was duly replaced but the same fault occured immediately.

We were given a choice of beginning to swap more parts, wiring loom, PCB, electrodes but with no guarantee of success or fitting a new boiler at a cost of £2000.

We have subsequently been getting various quotes and advice. As the boiler had effectively been written off I decided to have a look at the internals myself. I flipped down the control panel and opened it up to check the wires from the ionisation probe. All the wires, and chipsets looked ok, so I flipped over the PCB to inspect the solder joints. Whilst nothing looked too obvious there were a couple of dry joints. I resoldered these joints (one was to the back of the ionisation probe plug!) and closed the control panel. SUCCESS! the boiler now seems to be working perfectly fine but I will keeping a close eye on it for the next month or so.

After reading a number of forums this seems to be a very common fault with the Heatline S24 / S30. A number of other people have also identified this as a wiring issue - so my advice is check this first and save yourself a small fortune!!

John-Boy

 

[habanerocat]

I also had a Heatline S30 boiler with this same intermittent fault.

I switch the boiler on and it will ignite and pump water to the rads but after 5-10 mins the gas will cut out, the boiler then tries to ignite again it sparks but does not ignite. It tries to ingite a few times and then the "check burner ionisation probe" LED flashes. If you switch it off and on again it will work as before for 5-10 mins.

I employed a Corgi (now Gas Safe) registered plumber who immediately concluded it was the gas valve. This was duly replaced but the same fault occured immediately.

We were given a choice of beginning to swap more parts, wiring loom, PCB, electrodes but with no guarantee of success or fitting a new boiler at a cost of £2000.

We have subsequently been getting various quotes and advice. As the boiler had effectively been written off I decided to have a look at the internals myself. I flipped down the control panel and opened it up to check the wires from the ionisation probe. All the wires, and chipsets looked ok, so I flipped over the PCB to inspect the solder joints. Whilst nothing looked too obvious there were a couple of dry joints. I resoldered these joints (one was to the back of the ionisation probe plug!) and closed the control panel. SUCCESS! the boiler now seems to be working perfectly fine but I will keeping a close eye on it for the next month or so.

After reading a number of forums this seems to be a very common fault with the Heatline S24 / S30. A number of other people have also identified this as a wiring issue - so my advice is check this first and save yourself a small fortune!!

John-Boy

Hi, Thanks for your post.

I'd also like to confirm the existence of dry solder joints on the larger power connectors on the PCB.

In my case it seemed that the gas wasn't getting through as the ignition spark was present, leading to an intermittent restart problem.