Help Sourcing Wall-mounted Reading Light

[securespark]

Hello.

We have a room we are renovating and I'd like to fit two Wall-mounted reading lights, one over the bed and one over a desk.

At the moment there's an old IKEA fitting over the bed which is the sort of thing I'm looking for (wall-mounted, flexible, built-in switch), but I need one with a switch in the base and be hard-wired.

I've tried places like Q&B, Dunelm and IKEA and places like TLC and QVS but with no luck.

Can anyone give me some supplier's names I can check out please?

Cheers.

 

[securespark]

 

[securespark]

I have just found this, and it is the sort of thing that I'm trying to avoid. It says it is Class II, and has a lead attached, but then says you can hard wire it if desired.

But if it is Class II, how do you hard wire it without compromising its class?

Nordlux Explore Flex Wall Light - White

The Explore Flex Single Wall Light - White is simply styled for modern living spaces.White metal finishIndependent on/off switch on back plateSupplied with 2 metre cable and plug but can be hard-wired if preferredSupplied with, and recommended for use with, 3W non-dimmable LED GU10 BulbSize: H...

www.lighting-direct.co.uk

 

[Sureitsoff?]

something like this

Redirect Notice

google wall mounted reading lamp for ideas, a lot of them seem to expect a circular mounting box in the wall though

 

[securespark]

Thanks. That's a possibility, but if I can source a GU10 fitting, that would be better.

 

[JohnW2]

I have just found this, and it is the sort of thing that I'm trying to avoid. It says it is Class II, and has a lead attached, but then says you can hard wire it if desired. But if it is Class II, how do you hard wire it without compromising its class?

I'm a bit lost - so maybe I'm 'missing something' again!!

What about cutting the plug off a Class II item and instead hardwiring the cable to a source of electricity would/could 'comprise' its Class II status?

Kind Regards, John

 

[securespark]

Making the connection between the light fitting flex and T and E behind the fitting.

If the fitting is designed and manufactured with the mains cord isolated from the metalwork of the Class II fitting by a plastic widget, with the connection to the mains supply made outside of the fitting (via the plug), making the connections off behind the metal backplate will compromise that Class II rating.

 

[Adam_151]

I Suppose you could sink a plastic conduit box behind the fitting, so the lid would fit just below the level of the plaster (personally in my own house I'd probably do the cable drop in conduit anyway, but thats by the by) fit a plastic box lid and drill a 10mm hole through it, mount the brakcet for the light to the wall with fixings either side of the conduit box, and either position the brakcet to avoid the lid cover screws or drill a clerarance hole (doesnt even really matter it it touches anyway, as its only going into an isolated threaded insert). Make connections between the flex and the 6242Y in BESA box behind lid.

I hate this design of fitting (class 2, but not be class 2 after its been installed)

 

[JohnW2]

Making the connection between the light fitting flex and T and E behind the fitting. If the fitting is designed and manufactured with the mains cord isolated from the metalwork of the Class II fitting by a plastic widget, with the connection to the mains supply made outside of the fitting (via the plug), making the connections off behind the metal backplate will compromise that Class II rating.

... but surely only if you wanted to take apart the fitting and replace the cable?

If you simply cut the plug off the supplied lead, and use that cable for the 'hardwiring' (either alone, if it's long enough, or else 'extended' in some acceptable fashion), then you would not have touched the fitting at all, so could not possibly have compromised its Class II status?

Kind Regards, John

 

[securespark]

Nordlux Explore Flex Wall Light - White

The Explore Flex Single Wall Light - White is simply styled for modern living spaces.White metal finishIndependent on/off switch on back plateSupplied with 2 metre cable and plug but can be hard-wired if preferredSupplied with, and recommended for use with, 3W non-dimmable LED GU10 BulbSize: H...

www.lighting-direct.co.uk

This is the fitting. It looks like it is ready to be attached to hard wiring.

But in the blurb it implies it is attached to a flex and plug which can be removed if desired.

So (assuming the connection point is in the metal cup that screws to the wall), how do you maintain the Class II status of the fitting?

 

[JohnW2]

.... This is the fitting. It looks like it is ready to be attached to hard wiring.

Maybe, but ....

But in the blurb it implies it is attached to a flex and plug which can be removed if desired.

That's obviously what I read, and assumed was correct when I made my comments. As you know, it says:

Supplied with 2 metre cable and plug but can be hard-wired if preferred

So (assuming the connection point is in the metal cup that screws to the wall), how do you maintain the Class II status of the fitting?

That question could only be answered with certainty by looking at the 'connection point' However, the first thing to do is surely to ask them whether or not it is true that it is "supplied with 2 metre cable and plug" - because, if it is, then, per my previous comments, you would presumably have no problems or reasons for concern, would you?

Kind Regards, Johh

 

[RandomGrinch]

Unless I'm missing something - (and I apologise if I am ), I'm a bit surprised that this seems to be such a big issue.

As above, connect the two core lead to a lighting connector, or an FCU, etc. and there shouldn't be any issues.

If the lamp is well designed, it could still be double insulated.
I have a class II IKEA lamp, the metal body has an inner layer of plastic.

The mains connection is made with a terminal strip - that is still two independent layers of insulation.

...and if you were still concerned after seeing the lamp, just add an earth connection to the metal case!

I am finding it hard to imagine a scenario where the lamp would be any less safe to use by hardwiring it...

 

[JohnW2]

Unless I'm missing something - (and I apologise if I am ), I'm a bit surprised that this seems to be such a big issue. .... I am finding it hard to imagine a scenario where the lamp would be any less safe to use by hardwiring it...

I'm also more than s little confused, but I think that secure is perhaps concerned that the description may not be telling the truth when it says that the light comes with a fitted lead and therefore that he might have to find a way of connecting a cable of his own without compromising its Class II status. However, I don't really understand that, either, since, if it comes without a factory-fitted cable, there must surely be provision for connecting as cable whilst maintaining its Class II status?

Kind Regards, John

 

[RandomGrinch]

However, I don't really understand that, either, since, if it comes without a factory-fitted cable, there must surely be provision for connecting as cable whilst maintaining its Class II status?

That was my thought too, but I haven't been able to confirm. Installation instructions for Nordlux products seem to be limited on the web.

 

[JohnW2]

That was my thought too, but I haven't been able to confirm. Installation instructions for Nordlux products seem to be limited on the web.

Same make and model number, but from an Australian supplier (click here) gives a link to installation instructions (click here) which shows the following. It seems that it comes with and lead and plug emanating from the hole at the bottom of the casing (Diagram A) but that one hardwire to a connector block inside some sort of (presumably plastic) mini enclosure inside the back (Diagram B) ....

... and a Q&A on Amazon for what appears to be the same product (in 2015) seems to confirm that it comes (or, at least,did then) with a fitted lead and plug (seemingly a 3-pin UK one, not the 2-pin job shown in the Australian instructions)...

Kind Regards, John