To make the abbreviation longer than necessary - ah, of course.
Regulations
- Thread starter mcbonez
- Start date
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Made for profit, used by ignorant people mislead by the profiteers.
[I reckon we might as well use this thread to discuss off-topic issues, since the on-topic discussion is going absolutely nowhere!]
To be 'serious', I suspect that the main reason for the "o" is that it makes the words much more easily spoken ("conv", "def" etc. would at best be untidy to verbalise within a sentence) - any vowel other than "e" (since a terminal "e" is usually silent in English), or even a "y", would probably have achieved much the same.
IIRC (it's always switched off!) the 'predictive text' in my ancient ('dumb') mobile does suggest abbreviations without the terminal vowel (e.g. "conv" & "def") - which is fine 'in writing (e.g. in a text message).
Kind Regards, John
I suspect iggifer might be closer to the truth in that it is short for 'convosation' and 'defonately'.
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Possibly, but I do think the terminal vowel aids verbalisation - try saying aloud "I'm def going to have a conv this arv" and "I'm defo going to have a convo this arvo".
Kind Regards, John
Where's the unwatch button. Ahh yes….phew…..goodbyeo
Excellent question ... but I'm still not going to hold my breath.Let's start again.... What do you want to know?
Kind Regards, John
I think that I've only ever suggested to the mods that they should consider locking a thread because it had degenerated into totally off-topic nonsense (often with some abuse thrown in for good measure) and hence was clearly 'going nowhere'. I don't recall ever having suggested the same because the on-topic content was clearly 'going nowhere' - but ...... !!
Kind Regards, John
Having read the previous 10+ pages of this and other thread, the deal is:
Existing circuit for the upstairs light is a borrowed neutral situation, with the line at the downstairs switch, neutral upstairs and 2 strappers between the two.
Downstairs switch is a 2 gang (hall and upstairs), and upstairs was also a 2g switch (landing and bathroom).
Upstairs has/will be changed for a 1g for landing and separate 1g for bathroom.
The dimmers are Varilight master/slave efforts, with the master downstairs as it's a 2 gang plate. Slave upstairs as a 1 gang.
The wiring required is pretty much as in the drawing posted multiple times already, and a 3C+E cable needs to be installed between the upstairs & downstairs switches.
The only difference is that the square junction box shown in the drawing is actually the ceiling rose for the landing light, a separate junction box is not required.
Other useless facts include:
Some 'electrician' person spent 3 days achieving nothing because they were totally incompetent.
The circuit won't have any RCD, so one must be installed, unless the new cables will be installed surface clipped or in surface trunking.
The junction box in the loft is a mess and should also be replaced, but this is a separate unrelated job, and not required to get these dimmers installed.
Volt sticks are used to confirm something is live - NOT to confirm it is dead. There is a huge difference.
Existing circuit for the upstairs light is a borrowed neutral situation, with the line at the downstairs switch, neutral upstairs and 2 strappers between the two.
Downstairs switch is a 2 gang (hall and upstairs), and upstairs was also a 2g switch (landing and bathroom).
Upstairs has/will be changed for a 1g for landing and separate 1g for bathroom.
The dimmers are Varilight master/slave efforts, with the master downstairs as it's a 2 gang plate. Slave upstairs as a 1 gang.
The wiring required is pretty much as in the drawing posted multiple times already, and a 3C+E cable needs to be installed between the upstairs & downstairs switches.
The only difference is that the square junction box shown in the drawing is actually the ceiling rose for the landing light, a separate junction box is not required.
Other useless facts include:
Some 'electrician' person spent 3 days achieving nothing because they were totally incompetent.
The circuit won't have any RCD, so one must be installed, unless the new cables will be installed surface clipped or in surface trunking.
The junction box in the loft is a mess and should also be replaced, but this is a separate unrelated job, and not required to get these dimmers installed.
Volt sticks are used to confirm something is live - NOT to confirm it is dead. There is a huge difference.
Why no ?
I presume 'no' because ...
... the downstairs light should be connected to Load and Neutral.
(The landing light part is correct.)
... the downstairs light should be connected to Load and Neutral.
(The landing light part is correct.)
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