Right angle chuck

Which direction would it oscillate?

In the normal direction that multitools oscillate. So the square, side mounted holesaw would be alternating between the two positions of these squares against the wall.

2squares.jpg


I realise it would give you a hole with slightly radiused corners and slightly bowed in sides, top & bottom, but the boxes have radiused corners anyway and the flange would easily cover the slightly curved edges. In fact, you could almost think of that as a feature, that you would have maybe ±2° of adjustment in getting the box dead level before tightening the plate screws.

Gaz :)
 
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How could an oscillating tool create a round hole - or, indeed, any sort of hole of the sort of depth that we're talking about?

I had in mind something like this with a depth of a holesaw, more rounded or circular and teeth that wont bind up.
Maybe I didnt think it through :)

ae235
 
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I had in mind something like this with a depth of a holesaw, more rounded or circular and teeth that wont bind up. Maybe I didnt think it through :)

ae235
Maybe I am the one who's not thinking it through well enough, because I can'se see how one would cut 'a hole' with anything like that!

Kind Regards, John
 
In the past I have made holes in plasterboard using a holesaw cutter blade by hand by twisting back and forth clock and anticlock.
Now visualise a holesaw with cutting teeth that work both clock and anticlock.
That action at higher speed and the cutter made with the correct boss to fit the tool.
no problems of it snatching and taking your hand off, just the vibration to deal with, depth would probarly be limited on the prototype.
But would give the multitool yet another job to add to its itenary.
 
Well, today I decided to give it a go with a plastic box to see if it would work!

20151214_172325.jpg

It wouldn't cut through the paper on the offcut of plasterboard I tried it on, so I cut that out first with a proper blade. It did begin very gradually chewing through the gypsum, but then the teeth all went blunt.

If a proper blade was made up from steel, then I really do think it'd be pretty good at cutting square holes. Purely for plasterboard though, it wouldn't have a hope in hell with ply or MDF, because it does really just chew its way through, rather than cutting its way through. Especially in the corners, where the direction of the line of teeth is at 45° to the oscillating motion.

Gaz :)
 
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Grinder on a steel box at the weekend then! Did the centre 20mm knockout just fit over the fixing lugs on the multi tool?
 
Did the centre 20mm knockout just fit over the fixing lugs on the multi tool?

It's actually a 25mm knockout on those appleby boxes (the other box in the picture, Marshall Tufflex, has no centre knockout). I didn't knock out the knockout, I just drilled a 6mm hole in the middle and put it on the multitool. But then the knockout broke off after a while, leaving a hole which the mounting plate passes completely through (it is 25mm diameter also), so i had to put a large washer behind the box and inside the box to make it mount on the tool.

Gaz :)
 
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Trying to make holes for the 12 oval-rectangular-ish locating pins is the tricky part, especially in a steel box!
 
Just use an old plunge saw blade and weld/rivet it to the back of the box, with one central hole for the central lugs to protrude through
 

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