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Bamber gaspipe
That was for DIY...
Water from a vent pipe
- Thread starter Teggs
- Start date
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Bamber gaspipe
Most respect to the wise Dude that is....D...I...Y.... 
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doitall said:Bamber gaspipe said:
Thats more than enough fun for the pace maker to keep time with
You must try and not get too excited at my age, otherwise I wouldn't be able to pass on all that great experience.
BEHAVE YER OULD GIT
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Bamber gaspipe
Sorry,,,,,, All respect & comments to most respected D.I.A...my mistake.. but then again....He knows who I meant......
All respect & comments to most respected D.I.A...my mistake.. but then again....He knows who I meant......
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Bamber gaspipe
Softus said:
Good call....You won`t be back then....
gasmanuk said:
How can that be.
As I have tried to explain.
The letby is on the system side, therefore the pipework after the cylinder will be at a slightly higher pressure than the cylinder.
For water to return to the storage tank via the cold feed the cylinder pressure would have to be greater than the head.
How can you increase the cylinder pressure when you have a hole in it, e.g. the vent.
Think about it and look at the drawings, No amount of huffing and puffing at the taps will have an affect on the cylinder, unless you cap the vent
FWIW I expect you're both right, at least in part. People with experience usually are.
I reckon, if the water were creeping back through some slightly faulty valve it would find its way back through the HW cylinder and into the cistern. That would make the cistern warm, as reported. But then it would NOT rise the extra few inches to go over the vent into the cistern, also as reported.
But if the rate of flow were higher, the resistance of the path back through the HW cylinder could be enough to increase the head at the junction where the vent goes off the cylinder exit, by those few inches. That would make some water go over the vent, at the same time.
Also, if there were any air in the water, (there usually is) then the water would be a bit springy. Then an impulse (say when a mixer were opened) could make a spurt of water go over the vent, before it then all sorted itself into going back through the cylinder. (Like you can get a pulse of water into an f/e tank in a ch system only when the pump starts)
I'm not sure if we know whether the water runs continuously from the vent. I think I saw that it does. That would mean there's a high flow rate and quite a resistance in the pipes back through the cylinder for some reason.
When a solution seems as though it should be simple but doesn't fit all the facts, is when it gets interesting .
I reckon, if the water were creeping back through some slightly faulty valve it would find its way back through the HW cylinder and into the cistern. That would make the cistern warm, as reported. But then it would NOT rise the extra few inches to go over the vent into the cistern, also as reported.
But if the rate of flow were higher, the resistance of the path back through the HW cylinder could be enough to increase the head at the junction where the vent goes off the cylinder exit, by those few inches. That would make some water go over the vent, at the same time.
Also, if there were any air in the water, (there usually is) then the water would be a bit springy. Then an impulse (say when a mixer were opened) could make a spurt of water go over the vent, before it then all sorted itself into going back through the cylinder. (Like you can get a pulse of water into an f/e tank in a ch system only when the pump starts)
I'm not sure if we know whether the water runs continuously from the vent. I think I saw that it does. That would mean there's a high flow rate and quite a resistance in the pipes back through the cylinder for some reason.
When a solution seems as though it should be simple but doesn't fit all the facts, is when it gets interesting
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