Waterproof Board

[HelpDIY]

Dear Forum

We are going to have a studd wall built which the builder suggested to have timber, plasterboard and plaster over it. Since the shower is going into this area, my tiler suggested to have somekind of waterproof board. Can you please suggest 1) a few names for the WaterProof Board.
2) as my builder already costed me for this work (Plasterboard + plaster over twice), I need to go back to him to ask for a waterproof board, is there much difference in cost. The area of the wall is about 3x2 meter.

Thanks again for your help

 

[trowelmonkey1]

what you need is aquapanel which wickes sell so check the prices online, around £15 for 1200x900 board, or someother 'tile backer' board like marmox.

the replace the plasterboard you have been quoted for and eliminates the need to skim it too, just til straight onot it, so could even save you money.

 

[Richard C]

Use Aquapanel or similar in the “wet” areas as trowelmonkey suggests. Cost of boards is higher but since it hasn’t got to be plastered the overall cost difference should be minimal. Make sure your builder uses Moisture Resistant board (green) in the rest of the shower room not ordinary (grey) wall board; again, cost difference of the board is minimal but the boards need priming before they are plastered.

If your builder insists on sticking to plasterboard make sure it’s Moisture Resistant & he tanks the “wet” areas with this;

http://www.bal-adhesives.co.uk/products/wp1-coating

Make sure your tiler uses a quality trade adhesive; I only use the above (link) companies products.

 

[dextrous]

Just completed my own bathroom - for a 1200 by 800 tray I used 4 boards up to 1800 mm on long side and 2200 mm on short side (got them from B&Q through convenience, not much dearer than wickes). Worked out cheaper than plasterboard and tanking to be quite honest.

Only tip worth taking I can think of is to use a small drill bit for pilot holes through the panels for the screws - bit of a pig to get the screws started without doing this.

 

[HelpDIY]

Dear Richard/Trowlmonkey/Dext..?

Thanks for replying - much appreciate for your advice


Richard, when u said Moisture Resistant Board (green), did you refer to the Aquapannel? Do I need to have plastering afterward?

All, also a colleague of mine said he had his bathroom done with Hardiebacker? How is this compair to Aquapannel?

Thanks again guys - great help

Use Aquapanel or similar in the “wet” areas as trowelmonkey suggests. Cost of boards is higher but since it hasn’t got to be plastered the overall cost difference should be minimal. Make sure your builder uses Moisture Resistant board (green) in the rest of the shower room not ordinary (grey) wall board; again, cost difference of the board is minimal but the boards need priming before they are plastered.

If your builder insists on sticking to plasterboard make sure it’s Moisture Resistant & he tanks the “wet” areas with this;

http://www.bal-adhesives.co.uk/products/wp1-coating

Make sure your tiler uses a quality trade adhesive; I only use the above (link) companies products.

 

[dextrous]

Moisture Resistant (MR) board isn't the same as aquapanel. It is a type of plasterboard which has been impregnated with something (think it may be silicon?) which prevents water entering and hence damaging/rotting it. Aquapanel is a cementious board which will never allow water in and never rot. It does not need skimming over.

If you are going to tile it, it should not be plastered over as the plaster will then "soak up" and moisture that reaches it. In the wet area (shower/above bath etc), however, it will need tanking prior to tiling. Some people advise that instead of plastering over the entire exposed area (if you're not tiling over the whole surface) - which will need priming otherwise the plaster won't stick - the joints can be taped over and feather edge skimmed, in which case make sure you get FE instead of SE board (ie - Feather Edge instead of Square Edge)

Don't know about hardibacker

 

[Richard C]

Dextrious has answered most of your questions; I’ve personally not used Hardibacker as I’ve always been a little concerned that it’s only specified as water resistant whereas Aquapanel (which I usually use) & Marmox are specified as waterproof. It’s a similar cement based board so in theory should be the same so I don’t know why the manufacturer only specifies it water resistant, perhaps others can comment. Whatever you chose, use 12mm boards not the thinner 6mm which are only suitable for overboarding.

You don’t need to plaster Aquapanel if tiling but it’s more to do with ashesion that moisture absorption. Knauf advise only to use their “special” plaster as conventional plaster won’t stick to it; I’ve never had reason to test the theory but you can plaster over practically anything with the right preparation so I am a little sceptical.

Being a plasterer, I’m not a lover of using taper edge boards & just taping & filling the joints; OK for a commercial environment perhaps but, personally, I don’t like it in a domestic situation, looks cheap IMO.

 

[dextrous]

Being a plasterer, I’m not a lover of using taper edge boards & just taping & filling the joints; OK for a commercial environment perhaps but, personally, I don’t like it in a domestic situation, looks cheap IMO.

Hope you dodn't mind my "muscling in" Richard - didn't know how long it'd be before you got back to answer and thought the op may want a promptish reply.
Not a plasterer myself, but have done bits as necessary. I agree with Richard about a preference for skimming the whole lot. Also, should you ever wish to change a wall covering, although some of the skim may come off when you remove the paper/tiles or whatever, this can easily be reskimmed, whereas pulling of the paper covering of plasterboard will make it almost essential to reboard the whole area. At least it gives you a fighting chance.

 

[HelpDIY]

Thanks guys again for your prompt response. Please give me further infor.
1) what is tanking
2) with waterproof, Aquapannel or Hardiebacker boards, they still need tanking before tiling, please confirm.

Cheers

Moisture Resistant (MR) board isn't the same as aquapanel. It is a type of plasterboard which has been impregnated with something (think it may be silicon?) which prevents water entering and hence damaging/rotting it. Aquapanel is a cementious board which will never allow water in and never rot. It does not need skimming over.

If you are going to tile it, it should not be plastered over as the plaster will then "soak up" and moisture that reaches it. In the wet area (shower/above bath etc), however, it will need tanking prior to tiling. Some people advise that instead of plastering over the entire exposed area (if you're not tiling over the whole surface) - which will need priming otherwise the plaster won't stick - the joints can be taped over and feather edge skimmed, in which case make sure you get FE instead of SE board (ie - Feather Edge instead of Square Edge)

Don't know about hardibacker

 

[dextrous]

Tanking is waterproofing - the bal wp1 kit referred to earlier is such an example. This will need to be applied to plasterboard prior to tiling.

Aquapanel does not require tanking - you tile straight onto it

Don't know about hardibacker- seems similar to aquapanel and as such will not need tanking, but check with the manufacturer first