what shall i do with this?

[slothrop23]

Hello everyone. would anyone be able to give me an idea what i should do to fix this wall. Its like a horse hair type stuff, and the rest of the wall will come away too when i get the pipes from the shower cut off. i want to build a shelving unit all the way round.
so i need to know what to do from the brickwork to finish

thanks in advance if anyone has any advice to offer

 

[trowelmonkey1]

so you're planning to take the whole wall back to brick?

if so then it's just a case of fitting your beading if you need any that is, dusting down and plastering.

doesn't look like engineering brick from the pick so use hardwall straight onto the brick once it's been wetted down.

scratch coat, float coat and skim!

 

[slothrop23]

sick!
thanks very much, i thought i was going to have to board and all sorts.
they need a relief smilie

 

[Dazz0i]

if you're planning on stripping the whole wall back.

me personally would recommend "dot and dabbing" some boards onto the wall. gives you a "blank", flat canvas to start again on.

depending on how big the wall is, could work out cheaper too. bags of bonding coat aren't cheap.

 

[trowelmonkey1]

but providing you can plaster, floating and setting would give a solid wall to work with, much more damage proof etc and better for fixing to.

still boarding is an option, depends where it is, assuming as there is a shower there it may be a bathroom? this could mean aquapanel making it more expensive again

 

[slothrop23]

it was a shower room, which i guess is part of the reason the walls are so crumbly. its a 45ish degree eave of about 4 m long and ranging from 2.5ft to 8.5ft where it evens out onto the ceiling. i can plaster but i'm not sure how straight i could get it from scratch as the wall is a bit wonky in places. it does have markers along the wall for the original plaster depth but i think they are wrong. if i was to go the board route would it be wise to double board it so when i mount the shelving it doesn't drill into brick? or will one board be ok?

 

[joe-90]

You can get some little metal rails that set the depth from Wickes - level them up and run a straight edge down them.


http://www.wickes.co.uk/Plaster-Flatness-Guide/invt/163564

 

[NickB_99]

You can get some little metal rails that set the depth from Wickes - level them up and run a straight edge down them.

I'm sure these would work fine.
But there is also the possibility of wooden battens also. Once your bonding/browning/hardwall starts to firm up you can remove and re-use.
(Though go round them with a stanley knife first to release them a bit)
There's some good info from Roughcaster and the boys on how to set battens up for float & set....
In case you're feeling brave rather than the dot & dab.

 

[slothrop23]

its strange cos i haven't done much plastering before(just stuff around my flat) i actually enjoy the process. sometimes theraputic.
thanks all for the advice, i'll cost up and see how rich and brave i'm feeling.

 

[trowelmonkey1]

if you're putting it back to a shower room you'll need to use aqua panel or similar not plasterboard, you can then tile directly onto this or skim it.

 

[Dazz0i]

moisture resistant board is adequate for bathroom spaces. (the green ones)

Never seen them wet plaster quides. they're quite clever if you can't wet plaster, but want to!

 

[Richard C]

moisture resistant board is adequate for bathroom spaces. (the green ones)

MR is the minimum you should use in a bathroom; for "wet" areas, inadequate would be a more apt description unless it's tanked.

 

[Dazz0i]

Get's used on site for bathroom space.

Never once been on site and used aqua boards.

Heck, my bathroom, is just plasterboard. Once tiled it's waterproof.

 

[Richard C]

Get's used on site for bathroom space. Never once been on site and used aqua boards.

That’s because most new builds are done to a very tight budget to maximise the builders profit; similarly using chip board on floors & then tiling over it; guaranteed to last maybe 5 years or so but sometimes a lot less before it all has to be ripped out & done again. Renovating bathrooms along with plastering, keeps me very busy!

Heck, my bathroom, is just plasterboard.

Perhaps you’ve been lucky, how old it your bathroom?

Once tiled it's waterproof.

Not so I’m afraid & a universally popular misconception. Unless it’s one of the very expensive epoxy products, water proof adhesive & grout is only water proof in the sense it wont disintegrate when wet, it still absorbs water & when this gets through to a PB substrate behind it will disintegrate. Ordinary wall board will go very quickly once it gets wet, MR will last a bit longer but will still go the same way eventually. Also mould growth & god knows what else; not pretty. Moisture Resistant means just that, it’s not water proof, a decent cement tile backer board is waterproof & will last indefinitely. A refurbishment properly done with the correct preparation & materials will last at least 10 years up to 20 & even longer in some cases but if your happy redoing it every 5 years or so, fine.

Don’t just take my word for it, do some research of your own & spend some time reading the sad tales of woe in the Tiling Forum archive; go on, educate yourself.

 

[Dazz0i]

If we're going to quote exact products to be use for the job.

If you opt for the wet plaster route, make sure you use dri-coat, being cement based, it's more suited to wet areas.

Again, this is of the highest standard of product for the job, but, how many people use it for patching a room back up?

(normal plasterboard has been in the main bathroom easily 15 years easily, and it's still there fine.)