Triton Opal temperature/flow change problem

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Hi all,

Recently my Triton Opal shower has developed a problem. The 'motor' noise of the shower cuts out, and the temperature of the water drops. Previously it was hot on 6 or so now it needs to be on 8.

The low pressure light does not come on. You can actually hear the shower unit stop and start intermittantly, as it does the temperature of the water changes.

Has anyone come across this before? What is the potential fix? Is it worth opening up to fix?

Thanks
Shaun
 
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The 'motor' noise of the shower cuts out,
the opel doesn't have a motor.

and the temperature of the water drops. Previously it was hot on 6 or so now it needs to be on 8.
tco or heating element.


You can actually hear the shower unit stop and start intermittantly, as it does the temperature of the water changes.

that sounds like a tco faulty.

Has anyone come across this before?
all the time.

What is the potential fix?
don't know till you start checking parts out.

Is it worth opening up to fix?
thats your choice if you can be bothered.
 
Hi,
Thanks for the reply.

Can you explain what a 'tco' is, and how easy is it to diagnose, or replace?

I'm in 'I.T' so technically minded, if it is going to prove fixable then I'm happy yo give it a shot. Obviously parts cost is a factor.
 
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It was intermittantly switching between faster flow and hot at 6, and slower flow and hot at 8, but it does not seem to be hot at 6 at all now.

There is no low pressure light sensor.

Yes, now it needs to be on 8 all the time. It did kick in breifly this morning, at went ridiculously hot at 8, then dropped out again
 
opal-electric1.jpg

n0 13 is the outlet tco.
check the condition of the wiring on the tco and also check it for continuity.
it may not always show up as failed if its clicking in/out.
so check when in its failed state and only giving out warm water.

also try running the shower without the head on and see what the heat is like then at 6 warm or hot.
 
Hello,

Initially firing up without the head on was good, but it son flicked back to cold again.

You may be onto something there. The upper most blue wire on the tco has around an inch of blackened cable at the contact end. Does this mean that the connect is frazzled?
 
Would something make it burn itself out then?

Yes, here is a pic.

 
So in this instance is it simply a case of cleaning and re connecting the cable, or does the part need replacing?
 
sometimes you can get away with same tco.

when you repair it check for continuity across the two terminals.
if ok then leave and try the shower.
 
the spaded cable connecting the can element to pcb has probably burned and changed the resistance of the connection, replace the cable.
either that or the 40/50Amp microswitch needs replacing
 

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