I had an engineered wood put down (Howdens) by a real cowboy in July 09. It had a huge bulge in the main thorougfare from hall to livingroom and creaked badly. I just had it lifted and re laid by a new company. The problem was that there was not enough expansion. That has now been sorted but there are quite a few new creaks and the same area (although much better) is still raised a little and creaks loudly. Should this die down now that there is enough expansion? Or will I simply need to start saving for a brand new floor?
-
Looking for a smarter way to manage your heating this winter? We’ve been testing the new Aqara Radiator Thermostat W600 to see how quiet, accurate and easy it is to use around the home. Click here read our review.
Does my Engineered wood need replacing?
- Thread starter Cathy34
- Start date
I wonder if you could have used something like a JML Exakt saw to cut an expansion gap without lifting the floor? (I want to know if it's worth buying one of these toys.)
Wood does take time to "settle down", so give it a few more days.
How was the floor originally installed? Floating, glued down, nailed? Just wondering how many T&G's have been damaged by this lifting and re-fitting of the boards.
Which installation method was used now? And did they install a divider between hall and living room?
ajrobb: a plunge saw normally does the job too ("assisted" by a Fein Master for the "end bits" at perpendicular walls where the plunge saw can't reach).
How was the floor originally installed? Floating, glued down, nailed? Just wondering how many T&G's have been damaged by this lifting and re-fitting of the boards.
Which installation method was used now? And did they install a divider between hall and living room?
ajrobb: a plunge saw normally does the job too ("assisted" by a Fein Master for the "end bits" at perpendicular walls where the plunge saw can't reach).
The floor is a floating floor. Installed in that way both times. There is no divider between hall and livingrom. I don't think the second company have damaged any T&G but because it was left for 8 months withoiut enough expansion they seem to think it has been manipulated and it needs time to settle. i am glad you say it needs that too. How long should i wait before thinking about alternatives. really don't want to get new wood put down - very expensive. thanks!
Side note: if the floor was installed floating the first time and all T&G's were properly glued there would have been plenty of damaged T&G's normally.
Did your second company glue the T&G's properly? It would have been better to have a divider inbetween the two rooms:
a) every room has its own climate
b) door openings are normally not wide enough to cater for enough expansion when a floor is installed through
both can cause problems.
Did your second company glue the T&G's properly? It would have been better to have a divider inbetween the two rooms:
a) every room has its own climate
b) door openings are normally not wide enough to cater for enough expansion when a floor is installed through
both can cause problems.
Your floor may well settle down and be fine. I just wonder if the correct underlay was used ? Should have been a sealed DPM underlay if the sub-floor was concrete.
Do you know what underlay was used and what sub-floor your have?
Do you know what underlay was used and what sub-floor your have?
Ah, glue! When laying engineered wood floor on an (impact noise reducing) resilient underlay over a suspended floor, do you suggest gluing the click joints?
I did my first (Wickes) engineered wood floor in a small home office and laid it on Wickes fibre board underlay. It creaks slightly
(although less so with furniture on it). In future, I was thinking of putting glue both in the bottom of the groove and a little on top of the tongue.I had no such problem with a Uniclic engineered leather floor on hardboard, but that is also a much finer engineered product than the wood that can be re-laid 3 times.
Hi to all who have replied.THANKS! This is very helpful.
not sure if the wood has been glued...i don't think so. Would that help? it is a click/lock- in system. the underlay is now new and is a 3mm multi flex underlay. The first company used a foam underlay. i chose not to have a divider between rooms for aesthetic reasons. there was no spare wood left from the first job and the new co didn't suggest buying more so they literally lifted it, made enough expansion and put back down again.
it isnn't any better today. it's almost like there is air between the underfloor and the wood the problem area and the wood doesn't sit neatly on top. the rest of the room is fine (with occasional creaking). the sub floor is boards of mdf. any other advice greatly appreciated.
not sure if the wood has been glued...i don't think so. Would that help? it is a click/lock- in system. the underlay is now new and is a 3mm multi flex underlay. The first company used a foam underlay. i chose not to have a divider between rooms for aesthetic reasons. there was no spare wood left from the first job and the new co didn't suggest buying more so they literally lifted it, made enough expansion and put back down again.
it isnn't any better today. it's almost like there is air between the underfloor and the wood the problem area and the wood doesn't sit neatly on top. the rest of the room is fine (with occasional creaking). the sub floor is boards of mdf. any other advice greatly appreciated.
My mistake 
Click systems, of course (to be honest, we hate them!)
ajrobb - it could be that the fiber boards are contributing to your problem, if the underfloor was slightly uneven this type of underlayment can make the floor end up feeling "bouncy" and creating noise
Cathy, aesthetic reasons are fine and well, but not with wooden flooring causing problems. There is another way: install a divider and "line-up" the floorboards in the next room. As much work for the fitter as installing through but with fewer chance of problems later on.
Click systems, of course (to be honest, we hate them!)ajrobb - it could be that the fiber boards are contributing to your problem, if the underfloor was slightly uneven this type of underlayment can make the floor end up feeling "bouncy" and creating noise
Cathy, aesthetic reasons are fine and well, but not with wooden flooring causing problems. There is another way: install a divider and "line-up" the floorboards in the next room. As much work for the fitter as installing through but with fewer chance of problems later on.
could be that the fiber boards are contributing to your problem, if the underfloor was slightly uneven this type of underlayment can make the floor end up feeling "bouncy" and creating noise
wood you like - do you think then if my underfloor is uneven then that could account for the "bounce"? COuld it be as simply as lifting up the plank of wood in the problem area and raising the floor a little with padding to make the engineered wood sit level? Maybe it needs more time to calm down and be manipulated into the correct position?
wood you like - do you think then if my underfloor is uneven then that could account for the "bounce"? COuld it be as simply as lifting up the plank of wood in the problem area and raising the floor a little with padding to make the engineered wood sit level? Maybe it needs more time to calm down and be manipulated into the correct position?
My mistake
ajrobb - it could be that the fiber boards are contributing to your problem, if the underfloor was slightly uneven this type of underlayment can make the floor end up feeling "bouncy" and creating noise
wood you like - do you think then if my underfloor is uneven then that could account for the "bounce"? COuld it be as simply as lifting up the plank of wood in the problem area and raising the floor a little with padding to make the engineered wood sit level? Maybe it needs more time to calm down and be manipulated into the correct position?
In your case I would leave it for a bit longer. The planks could indeed still come back - the dry air humidity we're having at the moment isn't helping.
Give it another 2 weeks - or if the problems become worse, for instance the floor starts to cup, you should contact the 2nd company straight away.
Give it another 2 weeks - or if the problems become worse, for instance the floor starts to cup, you should contact the 2nd company straight away.
My mistake
Reading your post avidly, just wondered why you don't like the click system?
Various reasons really:
Most on the market are not worth the extra money the product asks for it
Most on the market can't make the top-end work (click-system on the short end of the board, either made of mdf or hdf - snaps off too often, leaving you with no connection at all)
You can't turn a board one way and then the other way to connect with earlier row AND earlier board in same row - so you're left with trying to install one whole row at the time (try that doing on your own)
No wall/room is absolutely straight, no underfloor is absolutely level - try correcting a board that's clicked-in already.
The last row (last rows that is, how many rooms do you know have 4 straight walls and only 1 door) needs its click-system removed to fit in (the angle you need to click it in never is "short" enough to do so)
T&G, correctly glued, is still the most simple method, versatile and again when properly glued will not leave you with gaps.
Could be that we're old fashioned but I can't see the advantage of a click-system over the simple T&G system.
Most on the market are not worth the extra money the product asks for it
Most on the market can't make the top-end work (click-system on the short end of the board, either made of mdf or hdf - snaps off too often, leaving you with no connection at all)
You can't turn a board one way and then the other way to connect with earlier row AND earlier board in same row - so you're left with trying to install one whole row at the time (try that doing on your own
)No wall/room is absolutely straight, no underfloor is absolutely level - try correcting a board that's clicked-in already.
The last row (last rows that is, how many rooms do you know have 4 straight walls and only 1 door) needs its click-system removed to fit in (the angle you need to click it in never is "short" enough to do so)
T&G, correctly glued, is still the most simple method, versatile and again when properly glued will not leave you with gaps.
Could be that we're old fashioned but I can't see the advantage of a click-system over the simple T&G system.
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
