Kitchen Isolators

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I am having a small domestic kitchen wired and have been told by one of the sparkies quoting for the work that the isolators for the single convection oven, hob and hood need to be at work top level for easy access. Particularly for disabled people.

Is this now a regulation requirement or can these isolators still be put in the cupboard above or below the appliance concerned which obviously gives the walls a tidier look. Many thanks
 
I am having a small domestic kitchen wired and have been told by one of the sparkies quoting for the work that the isolators for the single convection oven, hob and hood need to be at work top level for easy access. Particularly for disabled people.
They should be easily accessible, not so much for disabled people (someone in a wheelchair, for example, would struggle to reach the wall behind a standard worktop), but for safety and general convenience.


Is this now a regulation requirement or can these isolators still be put in the cupboard above or below the appliance concerned which obviously gives the walls a tidier look. Many thanks
They should never have been put there.

And as for the tidier look, a kitchen is a place of work. Form should not take precedence over function. There is absolutely no reason why you cannot have a neat and tidy bank of accessible isolation switches.
 
Ban-all-sheds. I notice you have not said if it is a IEE Requirement that these isolators are 'on show' or if it is that they must be easily accessible. Other threads seem to imply that to have the isolators fitted in the related cupboard is perfectly acceptable. What would one be expected to do on an island unit with a hob and overhead hood?
 
The risk with putting them in a cupboard is that the cupboard gets full of junk, pots, pans (despite the best will in the world and you saying they wont, they WILL, its what the cupboards are there for). So it is highly recommended to have them out in the open, such is the "spirit" of the regs by saying they should be "easily accesible".

In my opinion, if you plan it carefully, you can make a row of switches and sockets above a worktop look good. Put them all at the same height. And everyone who uses the kitchen will know where they are.
 
I suspect the spark quoting will be fitting a new radial/ring for the kitchen, surely flicking the circuit breaker in a fusebox would satisfy the regs by being "easily accesible"

I would take Ban-all-sheds unprofessional advice with a pinch of salt, you can imagine what his kitchen is like, surface mounted armoured cable, ceeform sockets and an e-stop for each device. :lol:
 
And spend a bit more than you would on bog standard switches etc on a nice grid system (e.g. MK Edge) with engraved switch modules.
 
I would take Ban-all-sheds unprofessional advice with a pinch of salt, you can imagine what his kitchen is like, surface mounted armoured cable, ceeform sockets and an e-stop for each device. :lol:
And the reason for that stupid comment was what, exactly?
 
A couple of questions about fitting sockets in cupboards that is puzzling me:

1) If you were to fit sockets in the cupboards can these be standard wall sockets?

2) When people say "fit the socket in the cupboard", do they mean mount ogn the wooden unit or mount it to the wall (with a cut out in the cupboard).

Thanks
 
A couple of questions about fitting sockets in cupboards that is puzzling me:

1) If you were to fit sockets in the cupboards can these be standard wall sockets?

2) When people say "fit the socket in the cupboard", do they mean mount ogn the wooden unit or mount it to the wall (with a cut out in the cupboard).

Thanks
1. yes.

2. should be fixed to "the fabric of the building". How you interpret this is up to you. They certainly shouldnt be fixed to flexible hardboard backs.

But again, no reliance should be given to these sockets for emergency isolation purposes. They should be supplied with an isolator above the worktop.
 
A couple of questions about fitting sockets in cupboards that is puzzling me:

1) If you were to fit sockets in the cupboards can these be standard wall sockets?

2) When people say "fit the socket in the cupboard", do they mean mount ogn the wooden unit or mount it to the wall (with a cut out in the cupboard).

Thanks
There is nothing specific about that in the regulations, only a number of generic regs covering suitability, good workmanship, avoidance of risk of damage etc. If you have an island unit you have no choice but to mount them on it, if you want sockets or switches there.

AFAICT most electricians, or at very least a significant minority, do not regard fixing things to cupboards as good workmanship unless there really is no alternative.


Ban-all-sheds. I notice you have not said if it is a IEE Requirement that these isolators are 'on show' or if it is that they must be easily accessible.
You start to get into "what is the switch for?" areas. Is it for isolation? Functional? Emergency?


Other threads seem to imply that to have the isolators fitted in the related cupboard is perfectly acceptable.
Different people have different opinions.


What would one be expected to do on an island unit with a hob and overhead hood?
Switches don't have to be on the island themselves, they can be on a nearby wall.

Many islands have an end panel on which switches could be installed.

There are usually ways to avoid putting them inside cupboards, but if there really aren't then so be it.
 
I suspect the spark quoting will be fitting a new radial/ring for the kitchen, surely flicking the circuit breaker in a fusebox would satisfy the regs by being "easily accesible"

Usually be single pole though, aren't switching for isolation meant to be all poles and either under the control of someone at the appliance or lockable-off?
 

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