A bit of bondage!
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Which must be why nobody dared add to the post yesterday!this has to be the best wind up ever
Hi Westie,
Avoid household disruption?
You are telling me that you believe it is perfectly safe to touch any energised circuit conductor because at these voltages either the RCD will trip or the current flow will be so small it will not be able to be detected, but when push comes to shove you're not actually brave enough to touch one!
It appears that the 'line monkey' has lost his bottle!
To the rest of you,
Yes anything that conducts electricity is regarded as a conductor, it is up to you must decide which conductors will reasonably foreseeably increase the danger of prolonging the duration of a shock.
Door furniture is part of a hinged door which moves with the door therefore with any luck contact can be broken, it is also unlikely to come into contact with a flexible circuit conductor as it is above ground level, unlike the short pieces of copper pipe coming out of the bottom of each end of a radiator.
I am disapointed that none of you have mentioned aluminium double glazing!
Avoid household disruption?
You are telling me that you believe it is perfectly safe to touch any energised circuit conductor because at these voltages either the RCD will trip or the current flow will be so small it will not be able to be detected, but when push comes to shove you're not actually brave enough to touch one!
It appears that the 'line monkey' has lost his bottle!
To the rest of you,
Yes anything that conducts electricity is regarded as a conductor, it is up to you must decide which conductors will reasonably foreseeably increase the danger of prolonging the duration of a shock.
Door furniture is part of a hinged door which moves with the door therefore with any luck contact can be broken, it is also unlikely to come into contact with a flexible circuit conductor as it is above ground level, unlike the short pieces of copper pipe coming out of the bottom of each end of a radiator.
I am disapointed that none of you have mentioned aluminium double glazing!
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Too busy thinking about the extraneous voltages that an aerial cable could import into the building. Should the outer of the coax aerial cable be bonded ( earthed to CPC ) like the gas and water services must be.
What would happen if the wind blew a TV aerial from the chimney and onto over head power cables running along the road below chimney height ?.
Hi Bernard,
Is it reasonable foreseeable?
Is it reasonable foreseeable?
Even your grammar is crap, TROLL !
Yes, at the week end I saw a house where failure of the aerial mounting could result in the aerial falling onto overhead supply lines. Attempts to have the cables and a pole in the garden removed are in progress by the new owner of the house.
H
holmslaw
Mr Mycockissorecosisetfiretoit, what do you about bonding if you have steel floors, metal stud partitions containg electrics, metal door frames and metal doors.
Do you want the common sense answer ( safety earthing ) or the answer that complies with equi-potential bonding requirements ?
The cable to the switches mounted in the metal door frame is installed inside the metal frame of the door. We can say the cable is double insulated and also in a safe zone so the hazard of the door frame ever coming into contact with a live conductor is non existant. So earthing the frame is not necessary.
But what if a wire comes loose from a switch and comes into contact with the door frame ( or a non insulated back box fitted to the frame ). Or a careless maintainance operation damages the cable exposing a live conductor which then makes contact with metal door frame.
Should the door frame with cables in it be earthed to ensure the RCD or MCB will operate, or should the frame be equi-potentially bonded to other metal parts of the partition to ensure that the door frame and any other metal the person may touch will always be at the same potential to prevent electric shock ?
H
holmslaw
There are more questions than answers.
I was hoping the expert would advise.
I was hoping the expert would advise.
The whole thing is a compromise between conflicting requirments.
Ignore the experts who have tried to create a fit all solution.
Take each installation as it comes and apply common sense to create a safe resolution of the conflicting requirements
oh dear, oh dear, Bernard (or is that AKA cocky?) has just mentioned the C-word.
Hi,
Where you have so many conductors you certainly need to be careful!
First you must assess what you believe will reasonably foreseeably present any added danger by potentially extending the duration of a shock under fault conditions; and then assess what can reasonably practicably be done about it.
There is nothing difficult about taking a 4mm earth cable out of the back of a socket and connecting it to the stud partioning now and again (given that any of the metal will remain exposed); and if the doorframe is fixed directly to the partitioning this should also account for that as well.
The floor will need to be bonded also, probably in more than one place but the tiles are always pretty tight together.
If you are concerned just bell it all out, you know the calculation R = (or less than) 50/Ia, it will only take you a few minutes and it takes all of the worry out of it. After all once you finish your bonding in a bathroom don't you check everything with your ohmmeter?
Where you have so many conductors you certainly need to be careful!
First you must assess what you believe will reasonably foreseeably present any added danger by potentially extending the duration of a shock under fault conditions; and then assess what can reasonably practicably be done about it.
There is nothing difficult about taking a 4mm earth cable out of the back of a socket and connecting it to the stud partioning now and again (given that any of the metal will remain exposed); and if the doorframe is fixed directly to the partitioning this should also account for that as well.
The floor will need to be bonded also, probably in more than one place but the tiles are always pretty tight together.
If you are concerned just bell it all out, you know the calculation R = (or less than) 50/Ia, it will only take you a few minutes and it takes all of the worry out of it. After all once you finish your bonding in a bathroom don't you check everything with your ohmmeter?
Whilst on the subject of doing what is reasonably practicable, I would just like to mention an idea that I have had regarding aluminium double glazing. If I am honest I will have to admit that I have been shying away from this topic for a while now, but I think that I may have come up with a solution.
We know from the experiences of our predecessors that metal windows, or more especially the condensation that they attract has always been a potential for problems. People put electrical appliances onto their window sills and if the flex is damaged or worn exposing a circuit conductor, there is a possibility that the exposed circuit conductor can come into contact with the little pools of water on the window sill caused by the condensation running down the window. Unfortunately this can cause the whole window to become hazardous live and when somebody then attempts to open the window, they find that they are electrocuted by the handle and struggle to let go.
My idea, that I have put in writing to the BSI, is to ask the manufacturing companies of modern aluminium double glazing to produce windows and doors, which have handles that are electrically speaking isolated from the frames. This should not be too difficult for them to achieve with the use of 'nylon' spacers and washers.
Hopefully this will relieve us of the burden of having to bond aluminium double glazing in the future.
We know from the experiences of our predecessors that metal windows, or more especially the condensation that they attract has always been a potential for problems. People put electrical appliances onto their window sills and if the flex is damaged or worn exposing a circuit conductor, there is a possibility that the exposed circuit conductor can come into contact with the little pools of water on the window sill caused by the condensation running down the window. Unfortunately this can cause the whole window to become hazardous live and when somebody then attempts to open the window, they find that they are electrocuted by the handle and struggle to let go.
My idea, that I have put in writing to the BSI, is to ask the manufacturing companies of modern aluminium double glazing to produce windows and doors, which have handles that are electrically speaking isolated from the frames. This should not be too difficult for them to achieve with the use of 'nylon' spacers and washers.
Hopefully this will relieve us of the burden of having to bond aluminium double glazing in the future.
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