Chimney Brest - damp

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I live in a Victorian house and there is an open chimney (not been used for ten years at least) and hearth in the main room. About seven feet up the wall in line with where the chimney make a 45 degree and then goes upwards (the angle allows dust that has fallen down the chimney to settle on the ledge inside the chimney) is a damp patch about 5 inches top to bottom and 3 inches across, which is visible in the main room. This comes and goes when it rains, which is odd as the chimney is capped so damp dust is sill dropping down the chimney.
I've been told me that this damp patch is probably where there was once a little door/hatch to allow the chimney sweep to put his brushes through to gain entry to the main part of the chimney from a better position. Further, the little door has probably been removed, the hole filled but sadly not with the proper filler, so damp is getting through ............... is this right??
 
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No. It's condensation. Warm moist air from the house condensing up the chimney.
 
you should check your chimney stack- probably needs repointing, one of my clients had a water drip onto his ceiling about 10 inches from chimney breast and this was a reason
Salute
MINDEX
 
Hardly the same problem is it? You are just a spammer. :rolleyes:
 
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Would it be a good idea to remove the plastered area through which the condensation is passing and put a brick in the gap and cement it in place?
 
You have to vent the chimney to stop it condensing.
 
Excuse ny ignorance on all things of an airflow nature, but the bottom of the chimney where the grate sits is open so surely enough air should pass up the chimney and out of the top so that condensation does not ccur?
 
I thought you said it was partially capped?
 
Its possible you may have had a soot hatch at the bridge of the chimney but they were normally always on the outside of the stack.

If rainwater water is coming down the vent landing on the bridge the moisture will exit into the room.

Does the chimneyhead have a vented cap fitted?

such as this.
 
Yes that's the cap-type thing what is on the roof folks (cheers for your help so far), Even if there was not a hatch once upon a time, would the damp sitting on the ledge on the inside of the chimney be enough to force its way through the brickwork to show up on the inside of the wall? If so .... what's the best cure?
 
it's nothing to do with flippin' rainwater. They wouldn't have made 80 million open chimneys if it was.
 
Whatever the cause be it rainwater, condensation or santa taking a **** the moisture in the vent will always exit towards the warm side...the room.

op. remove the plaster back to the brick and use a cement render with waterproofer, then some multi.

Chimney flues were originally designed to be open top and bottom with a heat source (coal fire) to expel the all pervasive damp and any rainwater entering the pots.
 
If the chimney is capped, damp appears and goes when is raining, and also damp dust is dropping down- so this have to be condensation ! :))
of course if not, since I am working in building industry I never had a condensation problem on the chimney breast- this is nonsense !
I will still suggest to check your chimney stack- if the mortal joint or brick is rotten will absorb rain water which follow down finding way in to the chimney duct and if there is any faulty joint/brick will use this as a way out- and in this case it might be patch on your main room, not absorbed excess will run down, mix with soot/dust and drip down on the bottom of the chimney.
that's my opinion
Salute
MINDEX
 
it's nothing to do with flippin' rainwater. They wouldn't have made 80 million open chimneys if it was.

Dampness on or around a chimney breast is likely to be caused by falling damp! Rainwater directly entering the chimney mouth and filtering down through the walls below. Capping your chimney could eliminate this problem.

http://www.maintainyourbuilding.org.uk/pages/getting_to_grips_with_damp.html

http://www.buildingconservation.com/articles/services/chimney.htm

There are two basic causes of damp in chimneys: ingress of rain, and condensation.

Condensation
Moisture which condenses can cause a problem in flues that remain in use. The burning fuel produces water vapour. If the flue is very tall, wide or particularly cold, the flue gases may cool to the point where the moisture vapour condenses within the flue. This happens particularly when wet fuels such as freshly cut timber are used.

Condensation-related damp can usually be reduced by introducing a flue liner, as this both adds some insulation to the flue and reduces its surface area.

Ingress of rain
There are three likely routes by which rain can enter the structure: simply down the flue and into the building; around defective flashings between the chimney and the roof; or through the wall of the chimney stack itself where the fabric is too thin or too porous to prevent penetrating rain from getting around the flashings.

Rain can usually be prevented from coming down the flue by introducing a fairly discreet capping. Types are available for flues which are no longer in use (providing ventilation only) and for flues still in use. If it is still in use, the draught may be affected by the capping, causing the fire to smoke, so some experimentation may be required. When a flue has been relined, rainwater which had previously been soaked up by the old parging may run down the new flue as if it were a drainpipe. Rainwater in the fireplace may be a problem after a flue has been relined.

Where flashings are defective, these should be thoroughly inspected and repaired in accordance with usual good practice and the recommendations of the Lead Sheet Association. However, all too often inspection reveals that penetrating rain is getting around an otherwise perfectly sound flashing. Such problems are more difficult to solve, and a degree of intuitive judgement must be used. The BRE and the Lead Sheet Association now recommend taking a sheet of lead all the way through the structure of a chimney stack just above the roof-line, but this will not usually be an appropriate solution in conservation work. However, the introduction of higher (taller) flashings and ensuring that all pointing is sound may help.
 

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