12x8 garden shed self build

[plumber799]

Not been on here for quite some time, but a new project looms and advice would be appreciated.
I am looking to self build a 12x8 shed/workshop to replace a store bought 10x6 (30+ years old).
It will be located 2' from a neighbours fence and 2' from the rear fence.
I understand the principal of building the panels and then erecting on the foundations.
Windows on one of the long sides and door at the short end.
I am considering shiplap or feather edge with a bitumen felt pitched roof.
I am 6'6" so want proper head room, unlike my current shed which I have banged my head on the door frame many a time!!
As I will have the head room I would like to have double doors, projects in and out.
Questions are what if anything should I have between frame and shiplap? Plastic sheet, builders paper, nothing?
Would double/triple wall plastic roof be better for more light?
I will be buying materials from wickes.
I want the shed to last, so better quality than store rubbish but not a high value trendy outside "room".
I have read a few threads on here but not quite hit the right one.
Any pointers would be much appreciated, does anyone have free plans I can use/adjust please?

 

[catlad]

You can buy ali snap down glazing bars for the poly sheeting for the roof, and then you do not need windows a friend of mine has a small workshop with a clear roof and it is a joy to work in. I would put breathable roofing felt on the stud work before cladding.

 

[big-all]

heres the pictures off my 10x12ft shed
http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b270/bigall2005/?action=view&current=e1e47346.pbw

if you have already seen them i apologize
every thing is at 2ft centers including underfloor supports
the sides are 6ft but the head room is around 6ft5"

and as long as you realise it will cost you around twice as much to build your own but it will be a much better quality and exactly what you want

 

[plumber799]

You can buy ali snap down glazing bars for the poly sheeting for the roof, and then you do not need windows a friend of mine has a small workshop with a clear roof and it is a joy to work in. I would put breathable roofing felt on the stud work before cladding.

Sounds good. I was a bit concerned about the joints between sheets, would they be waterproof? Also I assume the timber roof sheeting adds structural strength to the "box", would I need to add extra roof timbers to compensate?

 

[plumber799]

heres the pictures off my 10x12ft shed
http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b270/bigall2005/?action=view&current=e1e47346.pbw

if you have already seen them i apologize
every thing is at 2ft centers including underfloor supports
the sides are 6ft but the head room is around 6ft5"

and as long as you realise it will cost you around twice as much to build your own but it will be a much better quality and exactly what you want

Seen the pics, looks solid! Do you have plans? I realise it will cost more, but you get what you pay for as they say! What sort of ball park are we talking, bare shed?

 

[catlad]

Yes they are strong ali box sections, water tight, no need for any extra timber as the ali box sections will strengthen the roof and the walls.

 

[big-all]

off the top off my head treated txg ship lap was around £250 other timber around £200 9 sheets off 18mm ply where around £300 but both floor and roof where fully covered on 9 sheets

3 layered torched on felt on it now cost around £250 but will last around 20 to 30 years

electrics first week in january 2004 so pre part p cost around £150-200 foundations around £100

the voids are 3" deep i have used 4" loft insulation you should have a ventilation gap but because i have had no water penetration for the first 3 or 4 years i took the risk and left no void allowing any moisture to breath through the 12mm ply on the inside walls

the outside gets 2 coats every 2 or 3 years and is due again as its now 8 years old

 

[plumber799]

Yes they are strong ali box sections, water tight, no need for any extra timber as the ali box sections will strengthen the roof and the walls.

Is it a lean to roof? Never used poly for roofing, is the a special apex joint, or am I missing something?

 

[plumber799]

off the top off my head treated txg ship lap was around £250 other timber around £200 9 sheets off 18mm ply where around £300 but both floor and roof where fully covered on 9 sheets

3 layered torched on felt on it now cost around £250 but will last around 20 to 30 years

electrics first week in january 2004 so pre part p cost around £150-200 foundations around £100

the voids are 3" deep i have used 4" loft insulation you should have a ventilation gap but because i have had no water penetration for the first 3 or 4 years i took the risk and left no void allowing any moisture to breath through the 12mm ply on the inside walls

the outside gets 2 coats every 2 or 3 years and is due again as its now 8 years old

I am considering a polycarbonate roof (natural light) but even so looks to be around £800 ish ish. What can you get for that? A wonkey donkey bandq wendy house.

 

[big-all]

i personally wouldn't like polycarbonate roofing as it may cause as you say structural issues but more than that 10% off my storage is up there with it being the only area to store anything greater than 6ft
you also have heat loss issues with more hear escaping throught the roof because hot air rises

the whole roof is supported on the side walls allowing a 60% double door opening this may have been compromised if i chose poly over 18mm ply

 

[catlad]

It was a single pitch roof I was thinking of as its the simplest, but I guess you only need a ridge to change that.

 

[plumber799]

i personally wouldn't like polycarbonate roofing as it may cause as you say structural issues but more than that 10% off my storage is up there with it being the only area to store anything greater than 6ft
you also have heat loss issues with more hear escaping throught the roof because hot air rises

the whole roof is supported on the side walls allowing a 60% double door opening this may have been compromised if i chose poly over 18mm ply

Yes I've just been googling and lost interest in poly, despite the light benefit. just thought through the doors thing, you are right, a 3' door will suffice. That would still leave 2'6" either side.
Wife has now got interested in "the look of it" and suggested bitumen shingle for the walls!? Would that be over 18mm ply??
Still could do with some plans if anyone has them , even as a prompt to avoid more poor design ideas!

 

[plumber799]

It was a single pitch roof I was thinking of as its the simplest, but I guess you only need a ridge to change that.

Thanks, thought it was, gone off the idea. Thanks anyway.

 

[big-all]

i would show her a sample off the shingles they aint that sexy close up

 

[fmck]

I have planned on replacing my ancient original timber garage with a small store, play room, office.

What I was planning was shiplap on strapping (ventilated gap behind). Strapping fixed onto tyvek covered osb board. Insulation within 4"x2" stud work. Polythene vapour barrier and platerboarded. Roof will be lean to with rubber finish.

Its the foundation I cant decide on :

Strip foundation with joist and chipboard flooring : Exposed brick at base would be nice finish probably blue brick.

or

Slab, easier probably cheaper but not as nice finish round the perimeter.

Question : If your buying from the one supplier (Wickes) did they give a better deal than local builder merchants?